Warning Lite - Oil lite stays on

[TURBO200R4]

What I am trying to do is to figure out how much silicone went through that pump and did the filter stop (collect) the rest or did it plug the filter and bypass the filter.
Where the base of the filter is, hacksaw around it, then you can remove the outer shell and inspect the filter (pics please).
The scavenger pump would also pull in silicone so drop the bottom pan (sump) and see what is in those screens.

 

[wjb]

Well, the good news is that you have discovered the reason why the oil pressure warning light will not go off.

 

[Joesmoe]

First rule of mechanics: *ALWAYS* try the easy stuff first.

Dropping the oil pan off the bottom of the engine is no more bothersome that what you have already done to remove the front cover. Just do it - and carefully lower it for a forensic view of what is there, how wet, how much foreign material, where is it -- photos to preserve for future reference.

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

Where in the engine has white-ish sealant been used?
Figure anything downstream of that is gonna be blocked.

Assuming white sealant was used somewhere else than between oil tank and pressure pump - chances are if that much was in the pressure pump - fed from the tank - there is some in the scavenger pump too, which feeds that tank.
And to get to it, you need to take engine out and split the cases. Not to mention all the passageways including tank need to be purged clear.

 

[Gregger]

Remember that you stated you got the bike for $500 bucks. The parts on that ride are worth more than that 10 fold. You could purchase a replacement used engine from PinWall on ebay also. Triumph Rocket III ENGINE MOTOR TRANSMISSION 2008-2015 Touring 2011-15 Roadster | eBay One suggestion. There are many more available too.

 

[warp9.9]

After you have done all the checks and you have not found the problem .
I would remove the front of the engine ,remove the clutch basket to get to the oil pump.
Remove the 3 bolts on the pump and split the pump,remove and clean the oil pump filter screen from inside the pump, Wet the pump well with oil and put it back together, spin the pump CCW with a drill to check for oil flow at the oil sensor tapping point..

I agree with this here bright young feller. Pull the pump and look for blockage in the screen of the pump. There is no gasket between the pump and the engine block I think we are realizing why. Now if you are good you can install the one way valve oil anti leak down valve. It would take some doing since the valve has a O-ring around it that creates the tight seamless fit. If it were me I'd open the valve and clean it. Super easy just remove the internal circlip and the disc and spring will come out remember the spring is under tension. While you have the sump down I would drop the oil lines for inspection. I would also check the sump screens. If the sump screens aren't clogged with the gasket material then no material entered the scavenger pumps. Also check the scavenger pump gasket area. The large pipe feeds the filter from the pump.
The small pipe sends oil to the transmission. I'll quit typing for now to give you time to ponder and ask any questions except will I share my food

 

[Joesmoe]

Trying to look at this systematically -- basically -- a substantial proportion of the responses here, are helping you gain information about the condition of the engine.

This data (oil filter internal inspection, sump pan with screens inspection, oil pump inspection, oil tank / lines / return valve inspection, valve cover and cams inspection, oil pressure circuit check, etc.), once collected, can feed an assessment of what next. If the data suggests clean and go, great. If the data suggest open the engine, then the better part of wisdom is a replacement, as suggested.

Of course, some people like to tinker, and maybe you're one of those. Like the person who builds their own airplane, the FAA says a priori that person is qualified to work on it even without an A&P certification, you might enjoy the process of learning first hand how Triumph engineered and manufactured that motor, and having pulled it apart, and spent the money on needed parts, you could end up with a "zero miles" motor.

And the possibilities are infinite. If you go that route, you could consider substituting some parts for a little or a lot of boost in performance. "There is no replacement for displacement" goes the saying around the race track, and this certainly applies to the Rocket.

If time is not on your side, as someone suggested, you could part out the bike, easily making your money back, and instead, shop for an excellent used bike all ready to go, with everything working, and probably some added farkles as well.

 

[warp9.9]

Side cover is off - see pic

I will be removing the clutch basket next... Note: a small piece of Metal which to me was part of the locking washer (not sure was sitting on the bottom of the casing below the basket. See pic.

Looks like a chunk of permatex/3bond. Have pulled it out for a closer identification?

 

[warp9.9]

Not sure what you mean by tear open filter, the picture showed the filter, I have not pulled the oil tank off..

 

[cootertwo]

I've seen, and heard of some sillier things, but do you think someone thought that squeezing a tube of silicone into the oil tank, would stop a leak ??????