Warning Lite - Oil lite stays on
hossr said:
I have not pulled the "Oil Tank" yet, and as for the SUMP what do you mean by that? In my inspection what would I be looking for???
Thanks,
Click to expand...

Sump as in the bottom plate of the engine. The oil tank has a couple of pipes connecting it to the crankcase, one of those is the channel through which the oil goes down to the pressure pump etc - you said the oil in the tank was not going anywhere?

Those 2 parts of the oil circuit, along with the filter and the pressure pump sitting below and behind the clutch, can be checked for blockage/fault before splitting the cases.

Re oil pressure pump and water pump drive- skip to 2:27

 

I put the Water Pump back on with the cover off and connected to the internal shaft and the Water Pump's Impeller does NOT spin. Next Step/s????
 

I can look at this - I wish I know that when I put on the new gasket on this pan... I will look into this later this evening. - thank you!
 
Folks, let's do a reset here: This is what we know currently-
  • Oil does flow all the way from the Oil Tank to the Oil Pan
    • How do you say - I pulled the plug again from the oil pan and drained all of the oil out of the bike - the dip stick which as a little over max was now dry.
  • The water pump "Shaft" does turn/spin when the engine is turned over so we know that gear is connect at least.
  • We don't know if the tubes in the bottom of the oil pan are plugged like the comment above - but if the oil in now empty in the oil Tank then would we expect that these tubes are free of debris?
    • If not do we need to pull these two tubes out and see?
  • With the radiator now off and the Water Pump pulled is it time to take off the Side Cover and look inside?
Gentlemen, thank you for your patience on this and your help.
 
i have never been in side the eng so i will bow to the experts
 
If you had a siphon type parts washing spray gun you might apply rubber hoses to the spray nozzle and fit it to filter base and spray oil to fill galleys, etc., add enough oil to tank, install filter, start engine and see if pumping oil. Could take valve cover off and see if lubricating cams.
 
Hossr.
Could you find out from the previous owner what the original problem was and what they tried doing to fix it? When selling something, many people will understate the issue. Also, from what I've gathered, assume there is no oil pressure (Do not run the engine any more!!!). Roughly how long have you run it with the light on? What about the previous owner? I hope it hasn't run long enough to mess up the main, con rod and camshaft bearings (head screwed) as well as scoring the crank and cam journals. When checking for no oil pressure, try to perform the tests without starting the engine. Pull 1 spark plug from each cylinder and use the starter to check for/build up oil pressure. Given where you are now and the noise you are hearing, I'd at least pull the sump to inspect for debris in the pick up screens such as bearing swarf, gasket sealant, etc. The sump pan is relatively easy to remove.
 
Could be the oil pump drive chain broken. I think you can get access to one of the oil pumps through the front of the engine without removing it from the frame. Its worth a look first.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

The service light came on (A little light shaped like a wrench). It stays on.
Replies
4
Views
795
Tal
Warning symbol H
2
Replies
10
Views
1K
Bnolan
Oil leak at starter motor
Replies
0
Views
437
Chariot
Super low on oil.
Replies
6
Views
804
stingray
PC on a 2004 R3?
Replies
1
Views
190
R-III-R Turbo
Menu
Log in
Register