Wanted: someone who installed the Rivco risers on the R3T

[1BigDog]

Thanks for that info. If I do go with a new cable ill get it 4" over. It sure cant hurt.

 

[cr0ft]

Yeah, I kept seeing 2 inches over on every forum and figured fine, sounds good, but it would just reach at best, and the 1 inch or so I got just didn't do the trick. Maybe 2 inches is perfect for the R3 Roadster with risers, or something?

Beautiful cables (I got the steel braid) and fantastic quality, but now I have to see what they'll do for me for a longer one. I got the same braided look for the throttle cables, I figured it would look good and I could have the old ones as reserves. Thankfully those aren't too short, just a bit shorter than I expected (long enough to work).

 

[Deleted member 1699]

Ill probably go ahead and order a 2" over cable. I like my stuff looking neat and tidy. Still have that Barnett part # on hand?

Hey can I get the part number please?

 

[cr0ft]

Hey can I get the part number please?

It's in my post on page one with web links etc. Just don't get +2 inches for the R3T if you want to route it properly, the appropriate length is probably closer to +4 inches +3 inches.

 

[cr0ft]

Thanks for that info. If I do go with a new cable ill get it 4" over. It sure cant hurt.

Ok, here's the definitive word - in my opinion. You want +3 inches on the clutch cable for the R3T with Rivco risers. It may bulge up slightly by the handlebars, but probably not objectionably. At least it shouldn't get tense as piano wire when you turn fully to the right. +4 might be objectionable. Go with 3.

I ordered two throttle cables from Barnett, both +1, and a clutch, +2. Unfortunately, I got one throttle cable +1, one throttle cable +2 and one clutch cable +1, which is why the clutch cable is way short.

This became apparent when I mounted the throttle cables - they were different length but I didn't twig to that until I mounted them and one of them bulged all over the place. One inch too much makes a massive difference, so thus the warning about ordering a 4 inch over clutch cable. It's probably not going to look good.

So, +1 length on throttle cables with the risers is great, and +3 on the clutch cable should be great (haven't yet tried, but expect to once Barnett makes good, which I'm sure they will.)

 

[1BigDog]

I didnt think we had to play with the throttle cables. Would leaving them stock be that bad?
Thanks for the info on the clutch cable length. 3 it will be.

 

[cr0ft]

No, there's no urgent need to replace the throttle cables. They're tight, but not overly tight, they're routed differently and are less affected by the risers. I just got a wild hair to replace the black clutch cable with the stainless cable and for pure looks I went with stainless throttle cables too, and figured +1 inch wouldn't hurt anything.

Turning the bars fully to the right does stretch the throttle cables some, but I rode for two summers with the stock ones and had no issues.

 

[1BigDog]

Just finished installing the risers. Re-routed the clutch cable but was still able to keep it under the neck cover and it works fine. No issues with the throttle cable either. I will give a word of warning though. The bolts supplied with the Rivco risers in "my" particular kit were the wrong bolts. The threads were coarser then the threads in the risers. The stock riser bolts will work but you need to add an extra washer as they are slightly longer. So, if you are buying the Rivco risers, make sure the bolts screw in all the way with no or only a slight resistance. If they do have a hard resistance, use your stock bolts.

Once I got into the clutch cable vs a hydraulic cable it all came back to me as far as removal goes. Kinda like teaching an old dinosaur new methods to destroy stuff.

 

[cr0ft]

Meanwhile, Barnett must have had a very bad day when making my cables. Oh, the quality and components are still outstanding and I really like the "low friction" type of wire they use for the clutch, but the lengths are all over the place. Main throttle is over two inches over stock, the throttle return is a hair under stock if anything and the clutch cable is only one inch over stock, and thus still won't route correctly.

Seeing the throttle cables laid next to each other is mildly hilarious, they differ over 2.7 inches. It should be about one inch, tops. Oh well, if they can fix the lengths and still use the same quality components I'll be a happy camper, eventually.

 

[cr0ft]

Just finished installing the risers. Re-routed the clutch cable but was still able to keep it under the neck cover and it works fine.

Yep, that's how it works, but if you fully lock the bars turning to the left, the cable still gets squeezed and will show slow damage to the casing over time (mine just has the outer layer of plastic worn off, the integrity of the cable is fine - it's not like I lock the bars fully left more than once in a blue moon in normal riding.)

I too used the stock bolts for the risers, btw. They were better looking, anyway.

Once I got into the clutch cable vs a hydraulic cable it all came back to me as far as removal goes. Kinda like teaching an old dinosaur new methods to destroy stuff.

Haha, yeah, it's not hard to adjust cables, I think I prefer a wire clutch over a hydraulic. Hydraulics can be finicky if they start acting up, what with bleeding for air and all that stuff. Cables either are or are not. Old school.