Valve shim removal tool

My first Gen Fuel Injected 955's had " shim over bucket " design and could rev to over 9k without issue , is there something inherent on the Rocket 3 motor that would prevent it from revving higher than it is set at stock ??
 
I ran 25 mm "shim over bucket" in my America with the rev limiter set for 8500 rpm with no issues. The valves are larger in the Rocket than the 955 and America. May be more prone to valve float rather than spitting a shim.
 
I ran 25 mm "shim over bucket" in my America with the rev limiter set for 8500 rpm with no issues. The valves are larger in the Rocket than the 955 and America. May be more prone to valve float rather than spitting a shim.

Valve float is what causes the "spitting of the shim" in a shim over bucket design. As the valve begins to float the cam follower (bucket) loses contact with the cam lobe. When that happens there is nothing holding the shim in place and it goes flying. By locating the shim "under bucket", if loss of contact occurs the bucket will keep the shim in place.
 
A fellow on this site wanted the dimensions of my shim tool so I thought I would share it with the gang.

This is how it works.
Valve adj. tool (1).jpg

Valve adj. tool (2).jpg

Here are the dimensions.

cam tool.png


Here are some actual pictures so you can see what it looks like. I made a little steel brace to run across the top for more strength.

PICT2708.JPG
PICT2710.JPG
PICT2715.JPG


Getting the angle of the bend correct takes some patience. You have catch the edge of the cam follower without trapping the shim.

PICT2704.JPG


Pick a valve that needs adjustment. Turn the engine until the cam lobe faces away from that valve. Use a pick to turn the cam follower until the notch pictured above is facing a convenient direction to blow air into it. Turn the engine until the valve is all the way down. Remove the nearest screw on the cam ladder and put the tool in place. Insert the screw through the 1/4" hole and tighten. Slowly turn the engine (I take one spark plug out of each cylinder so it turns easier) until the cam follower is near the tool. Adjust the bend until you can just catch the edge of the follower. I had to slot the 1/4" hole a little to get the right angle. Blow compressed air into the notch and use a pick on the opposite side to tiddly wink the shim out. They have to come straight up or they bind. The oil sticktion doesn't help either. Not a bad idea to stuff something in the cam chain tunnel in case one goes flying. Do the valves ONE AT A TIME. Do not allow the cam to run on a follower without a shim on it. Don't ask ! :oops:

PICT2706.JPG


This is what you don't want to happen.

It takes a little farting around but is still way easier than removing the cams. Good luck ! Fred

Thank you so much for posting this tool. Used the design today on another captains bike who only had 2 valves out of tolerance.

While getting the two shims out weren’t the easiest thing in the world, it took me longer to make the tool than get the shims out.

Huge thanks!!
 
I have the material you used now but I won't know if I have the bend angle correct relative to the top part of the tool where the 1/4" opening is located. I wont be sure until I have to do the job. I guess that will be tweak.time.
 
Its 90 degrees, plus 3 medium whacks with the mallet :p

Seriously, 100% better than trying the nightmare of doing it with a screw driver.

I bet I could do all 12 valves using this tool and re-shim all 12 faster than cams out/in the way they call for, and, you save a few headaches associated with cam timing.
 
Back
Top