Tyre valve replacement

First up I'd really advise not to ride the bike with a suspect valve, if it were to break off completely while you were doing a decent rate of knots, loss of control is almost guaranteed because of the sudden deflation.

Wheel off, tire off, then replace the valve.
I guess you could replace the valve with only 1 side off the rim, but why would you? There'd be 1 hell of a lot of mucking around trying to do it like that, the 2nd side is easy as to take off, and, as the first side to put on, it's easy too.

Kiwicol said:

First up I'd really advise not to ride the bike with a suspect valve, if it were to break off completely while you were doing a decent rate of knots, loss of control is almost guaranteed because of the sudden deflation.

Wheel off, tire off, then replace the valve.
I guess you could replace the valve with only 1 side off the rim, but why would you? There'd be 1 hell of a lot of mucking around trying to do it like that, the 2nd side is easy as to take off, and, as the first side to put on, it's easy too.

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Thanks for the reply. The stopgap is just to keep the tyre inflated enough to make it easier to push the bike onto a trailer, if necessary, for the 2 mile journey to my local bike mechanic's. I don’t feel technically proficient to remove the rear wheel completely and then reinstall it totally correctly, which was why I was asking how difficult it might be to replace the valve myself, with the wheel still on the bike.

I really covet the single sided swingarm on the newer models.

@Kiwicol is spot on. Even if you have the means to do it yourself it would probably take 10X the work and effort to do it that way.
The rear tire is notoriously difficult to remove. DIYers often have to cut the bead to get it off.
The wheel comes off easily and then you'd have a much easier time working off the tire. At this point you could just remove one side of the tire to get to the valve. Traditional tire irons are not the way to go and, in my experience, a lot of shops will mank your rims up using their hydraulic machines improperly.
I do my own tires and have found an easy system- if you're interested (see below). For balancing the rear I use dyna beads.
My technique is better now and it takes very little effort using this tool....

Thanks for the advice. I appreciate it.

I would recommend if you're doing it yourself you take the wheel off. There is no drop in the rim like on a car wheel so getting the tire off manually requires a herculean effort, however since you only need to replace the faulty valve you can break the bead on one side and collapse the tire far enough to access the valve stem nut. There is an O-ring that can be easily damaged leading to leakage so don't twist the stem once you have any pressure on that O-ring. I had a (very) large C-clamp I used for doing tire changes that worked for this kind of project (originally bought for removing intake/exhaust valves from a Yamaha XS1100). The absolute easiest way to get it done is take your wheel (and new parts) to a tire shop with pneumatic equipment and have them install the new stem and test for leaks after.