Possibly, probably. If your new setup has equivalent flow to the Triumph TOR system, perhaps that tune would work. You could get Triumph to load it or do it yourself with TuneECU for which you need a cable that costs $20. The stock Triumph tunes for the Roadster seriously restrict power by closing the secondary throttle plates. You can open them with TuneECU. Then get your bike dyno tested to see if it's running too lean. if so, you need to add fuel to the tune.
Battersea
Turbocharged
Collected the bike this afternoon, did a 50 mile test ride and the idle is now ok so assume the new TPS is working. Popping on decel is still there so still work to do.
Over the next few days I will check for exhaust leaks etc and if none found then have to ask for help with some remapping, all suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
On my way home I tried to gauge where the popping was occurring and as far as I could tell (above the wind noise) its at its worst on decel between around 2000 and idle. Above 2000 there is a rather pleasant 'growl' and then the revs fall to 2000ish and the popping starts, hope that makes sense.
Over the next few days I will check for exhaust leaks etc and if none found then have to ask for help with some remapping, all suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
On my way home I tried to gauge where the popping was occurring and as far as I could tell (above the wind noise) its at its worst on decel between around 2000 and idle. Above 2000 there is a rather pleasant 'growl' and then the revs fall to 2000ish and the popping starts, hope that makes sense.
Battersea
Turbocharged
dougl or Pig9r, if you are about can you help with my understanding of the tables in the maps please?
In a previous post you mentioned that the solution to my popping problem would be to add fuel to the L tables. When I look at the L tables in TuneECU the cell values are for relevant RPM and Air pressure. What do the cell values represent? Also if its a case of adding fuel why would this not be done in the Air/Fuel table which sets the A/F at relevant RPM and Throttle positions?
In a previous post you mentioned that the solution to my popping problem would be to add fuel to the L tables. When I look at the L tables in TuneECU the cell values are for relevant RPM and Air pressure. What do the cell values represent? Also if its a case of adding fuel why would this not be done in the Air/Fuel table which sets the A/F at relevant RPM and Throttle positions?
Don't mess with the air/fuel table.
The L tables are fuel amount (actually air volume which is converted to fuel amount) same as the main F tables but varies by RPM and manifold pressure (MAP). These are used at low throttle position. The F/L switch points are given in another table but when the throttle is closed or near closed the L tables are used. There are a lot of variants of L table mods.
Try copying L tables from this tune:
20050DynoFinalMap_TOR_CatBypass_Decel.hex
If this doesn't work, try this tune from Power Tripp:
20050DynoFinalMap_TOR_CatBypass_Decel.hex
I've never tried that one but the previous one was done by Tuneboy.
You need to uncheck the O2 sensor box and disconnect the O2 sensor under the side cover. Otherwise, the ECU will adapt and lean these changes out and the popping will redevelop.
Battersea
Turbocharged
Thanks Doug,
I have compared the L1 to L3 tables in the suggested 20050 tune with the 20215 tune thats in my ECU. The comparison was made with Tune 20050 from tomhamberg.net/Tune_List.html > Triumph Custom 3/4 Cyl.map's, I assume this is the tune you referred to.
Using TuneECU to compare, it is easy to see the values that are different (images below). As a matter of interest, I notice that the cells that are different on the left hand side of the L1 & L3 tables are similar but the changes to the cell values in the L2 table span a much wider range, have you any ideas on why that might be? Also I made a percentage comparison on a few of the cells and they ranged from +5% to +31% - quite a variation!
Its just the decel popping I want to get rid of so is it only the cells that are on the left of the tables that need changing i.e. only those in the lower 'rpm/Air Pressure' cells or do I change all different cell values including those on the right side of the tables?
Edit:
If I remove the O2 sensor completely and uncheck the box is it also necessary to fit a blanking plug or is sealing it up with tape sufficient?
L1
L2
L3
I have compared the L1 to L3 tables in the suggested 20050 tune with the 20215 tune thats in my ECU. The comparison was made with Tune 20050 from tomhamberg.net/Tune_List.html > Triumph Custom 3/4 Cyl.map's, I assume this is the tune you referred to.
Using TuneECU to compare, it is easy to see the values that are different (images below). As a matter of interest, I notice that the cells that are different on the left hand side of the L1 & L3 tables are similar but the changes to the cell values in the L2 table span a much wider range, have you any ideas on why that might be? Also I made a percentage comparison on a few of the cells and they ranged from +5% to +31% - quite a variation!
Its just the decel popping I want to get rid of so is it only the cells that are on the left of the tables that need changing i.e. only those in the lower 'rpm/Air Pressure' cells or do I change all different cell values including those on the right side of the tables?
Edit:
If I remove the O2 sensor completely and uncheck the box is it also necessary to fit a blanking plug or is sealing it up with tape sufficient?
L1
L2
L3
Manic_Mechanic
Turbocharged
Queston... Before I went with tuneboy I used the PC3 with the O2 sensor eliminator. Now I'm using tune ECU. If I uncheck the O2 sensor do I have to disconnect the eliminator since the eliminator is fooling the ECU? I've read every thread in this forum on tune ECU (I think) and have not seen this specific issue addressed.
Tuneboy originally came out with the O2 sensor check box. I asked Wayne McDonald at Tuneboy about disconnecting the O2 sensor under the side cover and he said to do it. You would think that unchecking the box would be sufficient. I'm obedient so I disconnect it. It probably works without disconnecting it but I haven't tried it.
I've been disconnecting it and reconnecting it for years depending on tune and season. I haven't removed it from the exhaust and it still works fine. I find that the very low end response is smoother with the O2 sensor enabled, although it learns and the backfire returns. I don't even care enough to reset adapt it. In the winter, the mixture gets richer and I usually enable the O2 sensor then.
See how the 20050 decel L tables work with the sensor disconnected and box unchecked.
Let us know.
I've been disconnecting it and reconnecting it for years depending on tune and season. I haven't removed it from the exhaust and it still works fine. I find that the very low end response is smoother with the O2 sensor enabled, although it learns and the backfire returns. I don't even care enough to reset adapt it. In the winter, the mixture gets richer and I usually enable the O2 sensor then.
See how the 20050 decel L tables work with the sensor disconnected and box unchecked.
Let us know.
Battersea
Turbocharged
I am going to have a go this evening, however I wont use the whole tune as its for TORs and Cat bypass which I think will en-richen across the whole rev range. I'm happy with the 20215 in all respects other than the decel popping. There is no intension to change the standard mufflers or fit a bypass so I want to make a specific map for that configuration.
I will be copying the lower rpm/lower air pressure values for L1-L2-L3 into a re-numbered 20215 map starting at 600rpm up to 2200rpm, this is the range where the popping is at its worse. The only worry is the L2 table, the differences to the 20215 are almost right across the Air Pressure scale - I just don't understand why this should be. So, the L2 table will follow the pattern of the other two tables and will see how it goes. The O2 sensor will be left in place but unplugged and switched off until such time as its all sorted.
As I see it, en-richening will be less likely to do major harm than going the other way - unless you think otherwise.
Many thanks.
p.s. my understanding is that the L tables are for cylinder numbers - is that right?
L2 is for cylinder 2. It's in the middle so it could run hotter. That could be why L2 is different. Why not just copy the entire table into the new tune?
Battersea
Turbocharged
Well because the tables in that tune are for a more open exhaust and my logic says the fuelling would need to be increased over the whole operating range, which they do. I see it that this is why the values in the cells that cover higher revs and air pressures are larger than the standard 20215 tune.
I don't see what I would gain by putting more fuel in at higher revs when the standard tune is ok at that part of the rev range. Am I missing something?
