Triumph USA in Denial over ignition switches

Mine packed up on my 05. The dealer sold me the kit with a new key, so to keep the old key I took the old lock to bits and just replaced the electrical switch part. One of the contacts inside the old switch had worn out and got loose. Not burnt out just dislodged.
 

By chance did you take any pics of that? I was wondering if the electrical parts can be seperated from the lock without damage...with a Corbin seat, I never use the seat lock and $360 for the set is steep even if I did. Ignition switch alone is only $175. I'm planning to hack mine apart when I get back to Chicago, but would like to hear from anyone who's already done this. :???:
 
Captain Rich said:
Ignition switch alone is only $175. I'm planning to hack mine apart when I get back to Chicago, but would like to hear from anyone who's already done this. :???:
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Frankly at that price I'd look for an alternative - The idk solution for example. Has anybody tried an alternative ignition switch?. Years ago when Guzzi switches were rarer than hens teeth - I used a Suzuki switch to repair a T3
 
When mine failed, I bought just the ignition switch ($130 if I remember right). I then separated the upper and lower housings on the switch (2 safety screws) and swapped out the upper keyed half. Re-assembly required 2 small allen head metric screws (don't remember what size). Re-install on bike required another 2 small allen head metric screws. Change out took less than an hour.
 
idk said:
The mechanical part where the key fits can be separated from the electrical switching part. Joining them back up may be a problem though.


Not really, you just need the right size metric bolts, or ductape.
Click to expand...

It's dead easy. You don't have to crack anything open or use duct tape. When you get the electrical part out, there are two small bolts on the black plastic housing, but they are rounded over. Security bolts of some kind. I took a dremel and ground a slot into each one, then just used a regular screw driver to remove them, but placing the flat head into my custom slot on each bolt.

Separate the two parts, move the new electrics over to the old mechanical key part. Re-combine. Re-insert the bolts with the slits. Done.
 

Cool Geek! I've had the switch out twice now to re-solder the wire (getting pretty good at that - although it's a pain w/Corbin seat and Rivco Risers). I wondered if those two rounded parts were some kind of compression fit and was planning to pry on them - now that I know they're screws, I know how to appraoch this,

Thanks! :-D:-D:-D
 
Just Great! Another issue to worry about with the Rocket. Now I understand why guys relocate the ignition switch. My preference is to have it where it is but my other more compelling preference is not to have it malfunction in the middle of 82nd turn of the Tail of the Dragon.
 
Just on the off chance. Are there any numbers next to the external "terminal contacts"?. For example 15, 30, 54, 56 etc etc. Why? well there are DIN (those crafty Germans) that govern what cables go where. If we can get a DIN relationship, we can find robust alternatives - MAYBE.
 
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