warp9.9
Pocałuj mnie w dupę
Ok let me turn on my computer so I can type
phar2slo
Living Legend
Well I'm at work now so will need to check back in three hours.
sleeves
Nitrous
Ok just got some time to get on line today and welcome some input here. This is going to be a bit of a saga, but we're going to sort this.
We installed a new TPS on the bike the old unit looked pretty worn. Did the TPS and ISCM reset to recommended.
Loaded a map that I had from Hanso in the past that worked well in my bike when I had the underclaw K&N's and std header with D&D pipe. Phar's bike has the Ramair and exhaust similar to D&D so the map should be good.
The bike still has the O2 sensor and this si switched on on the Map, most bikes I've gotten rid of this, (unplugged, unticked and removed). Should we get rid of it? Wouldnt have though it would cause these problems?
We have checked the fuel lines, air pressure lines, tank overflow and vent tubes, ignition connections on coils (not missing at all though). Don't think the issue is fuel pump as it revs and rides well just idles badly.
On the initial start bike ran perfectly then as it warmed it began to idle erratic to the point it stalled out and would not even want to restart.
We adjusted the idle to 940rpm over most of the range and did another reset, the idling was still very erratically an unstable. If the bike was stopped then restarted it simply would not start without a handful of throttle, then had large idle surges as it sat idling and warmed up.
In the end to get it having some semblance if stability at idle I have set the ISCM to 0.76V and this is better but not fixed. The ISCM seemed to be would way too far back to the motor putting it back in the area where I though it should be improved it but it was still not perfect by a long shot.
I should point out the injectors are balanced and have always been stable. The air temp sensor is also reading and adjusting.
We also tried setting the F/L table switch point to 0, this didn't work and we reversed that back to stock immediately.
Now I suspect the issue is the Air Temp and the location of the sensor in the Ramair, when sitting the heat rising and the fan blows quite warm air back to the air intakes but this didn't really show on the Tune ECU only a few degree increase. Also was getting late and stopping/starting the bike was going to start annoying people.
Should we pull the AT sensor out and mount up in cooler air as a test? I have had this happen to another guys R3 (with K&N's) but the temp sensor fell under the tank and made the bike run like a bucket of bolts at idle.
Am I missing something here? Have worked on a few R3's now and this has been a challenge.
We installed a new TPS on the bike the old unit looked pretty worn. Did the TPS and ISCM reset to recommended.
Loaded a map that I had from Hanso in the past that worked well in my bike when I had the underclaw K&N's and std header with D&D pipe. Phar's bike has the Ramair and exhaust similar to D&D so the map should be good.
The bike still has the O2 sensor and this si switched on on the Map, most bikes I've gotten rid of this, (unplugged, unticked and removed). Should we get rid of it? Wouldnt have though it would cause these problems?
We have checked the fuel lines, air pressure lines, tank overflow and vent tubes, ignition connections on coils (not missing at all though). Don't think the issue is fuel pump as it revs and rides well just idles badly.
On the initial start bike ran perfectly then as it warmed it began to idle erratic to the point it stalled out and would not even want to restart.
We adjusted the idle to 940rpm over most of the range and did another reset, the idling was still very erratically an unstable. If the bike was stopped then restarted it simply would not start without a handful of throttle, then had large idle surges as it sat idling and warmed up.
In the end to get it having some semblance if stability at idle I have set the ISCM to 0.76V and this is better but not fixed. The ISCM seemed to be would way too far back to the motor putting it back in the area where I though it should be improved it but it was still not perfect by a long shot.
I should point out the injectors are balanced and have always been stable. The air temp sensor is also reading and adjusting.
We also tried setting the F/L table switch point to 0, this didn't work and we reversed that back to stock immediately.
Now I suspect the issue is the Air Temp and the location of the sensor in the Ramair, when sitting the heat rising and the fan blows quite warm air back to the air intakes but this didn't really show on the Tune ECU only a few degree increase. Also was getting late and stopping/starting the bike was going to start annoying people.
Should we pull the AT sensor out and mount up in cooler air as a test? I have had this happen to another guys R3 (with K&N's) but the temp sensor fell under the tank and made the bike run like a bucket of bolts at idle.
Am I missing something here? Have worked on a few R3's now and this has been a challenge.
warp9.9
Pocałuj mnie w dupę
Check the cable free play 2 to 3 mm pull cable at the throttle grip and most important did I say most important!!!!!! Return cable free play is checked down at the throttle body between the cable tube and the throttle wheel. You don't want the stepper motor fighting the cable and all the springs in between the first throttle body and the next two let alone the primary tps.
It could make the idle oscillate making balancing and a stable tps setting a bugger .
Not sure if you checked this or not but I took the liberty to correct y spelling errors
sleeves
Nitrous
Check the cable free play 2 to 3 mm pull cable at the throttle grip and most important did I say most important!!!!!! Return cable free play is checked down at the throttle body between the cable tube and the throttle wheel. You don't want the stepper motor fighting the cable and all the springs in between the first throttle body and the next two let alone the primary tps.
It could make the idle oscillate making balancing and a stable tps setting a bugger .
Not sure if you checked this or not but I took the liberty to correct y spelling errors
Check the cable free play 2 to 3 mm pull cable at the throttle grip and most important did I say most important!!!!!! Return cable free play is checked down at the throttle body between the cable tube and the throttle wheel. You don't want the stepper motor fighting the cable and all the springs in between the first throttle body and the next two let alone the primary tps.
It could make the idle oscillate making balancing and a stable tps setting a bugger .
Not sure if you checked this or not but I took the liberty to correct y spelling errors
Hi Warp.
Good suggestion. must confess I just checked up at bars and there was freeplay. Only eyeballed the cables at other end but did notice the cables and pivot disc do not quite line up. I.e the cable doesn't seem to roll directly onto the disc but seems "offset". This may well be the issue.
You're not correcting my UK English with your Yankee version are you? I'll have to write to the Queen...
phar2slo
Living Legend
Well took the rocket a to get the new tire, bike ran great at speed and great at overtaking horse floats and the like in the country side.
Still has an idle issue so just the keeped revs up when I got the the stop light.
Hopefully will get it sorted.
But #ell I love this bike can't wait to do an all day ride.
On summer vacation this Friday till 15 January so hope to get at least one day of 500 miles under my belt.
Still has an idle issue so just the keeped revs up when I got the the stop light.
Hopefully will get it sorted.
But #ell I love this bike can't wait to do an all day ride.
On summer vacation this Friday till 15 January so hope to get at least one day of 500 miles under my belt.
Tal
Living Legend
I believe the air intake sensor is situated where it is in the ramair to measure the air temp that is going into the throttle bodies therefore enabling the tune to be as correct as it can be, By placing it elsewhere, it will confuse the ecu...the air temp will be different.I have a small filter protecting the AIT sensor bulb and mounted between the K&N pods which I have on my bike....that's the way I see it.
1K9
No'mo Rocket 4 me
2Slo; I have had a year of tweaking, replacing several sensors and cleaning and greasing connections in the engine management system. I have witnesses of my having developed esoteric powers where by jiggling my hand under the tank, the TwoTone's idle issues cease.
There are several entertaining threads which might help you discover how to tweak your Rocket to perfection. If you have one of these Rockets with throttle issues, you just have to learn to work with your bike, and your shop if you have one. For me, the experience to work on my bike and slowly increase the procedures I can perform is the salt of the whole thing. This pack will guide you through it.
Have fun Brother
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phar2slo
Living Legend
phar2slo
Living Legend
Sitting at work with bike doing 12 minute tune and looking at the clouds rolling in.
Looks like I will get a wet arse
Looks like I will get a wet arse
