TPS and ISCV

[R3 in CT]

I have a feeling that I started the ISCV and do to never having done it before I didn't let it finish. I was reading Hanso above and it actually goes to stepper motor adjustment, I did not see that. Could that have thrown off the throttle bodies. Also when I turned the bike back on the TPS was at 6 not 60 and the idle was rough. Thanks for your guidance.

 

[warp9.9]

Yep first double click retracts the stepper motor fully. This is where you set the tps at .60 volts +/- .02volts. The next double click moves the stepper motor .12 volts more. So you should see .72 on the screen if not thats where you take the 7 mm wrench and adjust the stepper motor to .72 (or actually .12 volts more then your first setting) the the next double click is where the ecu is synchronizting the tps and stepper motor with the map. Takes 15 seconds or so. After that and it reports ISCV RESET is complete. You double click reset adaptives then turn the key off for 3 to 5 seconds put you head light fuse back in and fire her up.

Alway follow the stepps on the screen do not change screens in the middle of a reset.

 

[rng3]

Found a 1/4" Square Drive and Bit Ratchet Wrench in my tool box.
Works well to adjust TPI
T25 hex bit fits in hex drive side of wrench, retained by spring, fits into the spot nicely.
Sorry @Steel found it a day late!

Rick

 

[R3 in CT]

Warp, thanks. I do the ISCV RESET with engine off and head and tail light fuses out, correct. Then keep double clicking ISCV RESET after each step. Should I balance the TBs after, since it wasn't responding before.

Frank

 

[warp9.9]

Ues engine not running but electrics on. I pull the headlight fuse. If your battery it not the best you can have a charger hooked up to it. After you do the ISCV reset and reset the adaptives. Cycle the ignition off put the fuse back in and turn her on fire her up see if she will idle and do a 12 minute tune. If she us real ruff then we will look at the balance between them and go from there.

 

[R3 in CT]

Warp, thanks again, the ISCV reset is done .60 and .72. I checked the TBs and the 3rd one is in the 800s, the first two fairly close 530 ish. I have not reset adaptives, would that make a difference.

 

[R3 in CT]

Tried adjusting screw between 2 and 3 cylinder, turned quite a bit. No change. Frustrated.

 

[sleeves]

Tried adjusting screw between 2 and 3 cylinder, turned quite a bit. No change. Frustrated.

If its only one cylinder way off balance, but the other two are good, I'd suspect an air leak on the cylinder, map hoses, off, lose, or cracked. 530vs800 is a big difference. Check them next as no amount of resetting will fix if this is the case.

 

[R3 in CT]

Sleeves, thanks. It seems my R3 has the CA emissions and a rats nest of vacuum lines. All six hoses are connected to the TBs. The rubber looks in great shape and I checked for cracks in the rubber at base of throttle bodies and didn't see any. With all the vacuum hoses and not knowing where they end up, there could be an open end and I wouldn't know where to look. I feel like getting the rubber plugs and just plugging them, any idea which ones actually serve a purpose beside the MAP sensor.

 

[Jag]

Sleeves, thanks. It seems my R3 has the CA emissions and a rats nest of vacuum lines. All six hoses are connected to the TBs. The rubber looks in great shape and I checked for cracks in the rubber at base of throttle bodies and didn't see any. With all the vacuum hoses and not knowing where they end up, there could be an open end and I wouldn't know where to look. I feel like getting the rubber plugs and just plugging them, any idea which ones actually serve a purpose beside the MAP sensor.

Check this out. Hope this helps.
REMOVAL of EVAPORATIVE LOSS CANISTER