It will allow the ecu to trim and lean out the lower narrow band areas. But won't hurt it. Besides the vac lines, plug caps , and rhe cheap plastic fitting. I just recemtly heard of a feller having on of his injector O-rings which would be the lower one. Wouldn't hurt to lube them and spin them right in place. Ya just have to slide the lock clip back to rotate them a bit. And i would only wory about number 3.

Only other thing that comes to mind is a poor seal, or cracked boot on the injector body to the motor, but haven't seen or heard much of this as being a problem, removed and refitted a few now and they seat real nice and the rubber looks of good quality.

With the large pressure differential and non changing reading it has to be an air leak and if it happened straight after TPS change it should be around that area, being cyl3 it reeks of the 7th tube.

Suggest easy test, with bike running and TECU on and reading vaccum, manually unplug and block with finger, or even us pliers (not sidecutters) crimp the hose (not the MAP line, remember pics show from engine side) and watch the pressure readings if the pressure changes there's your problem hose.

Hang in there you'll get this
 
Warp, I did notice the injector on # 3 was situated a bit different than #1 and #2. I will pull injector and lube seals. Sleeves, I actually did exactly what you suggested with pliers for the two vac lines, not Map sensor and there was no difference. It looks like both of the vac lines go to the evap canister, I think next I will run the hose from the second to third vac port to eliminate a leaking evap canister.
 
Just putting info together - that the higher the number on the TBs in Tune ECU means less vacuum. When one TB is over 800 it would be vacuum leak. The vacuum leak could be at 3 vacuum hoses(1 to Map Sensor, 2 to evap can), injector seal, rubber boot or TPS o ring. I have checked some of these, but next time will try to isolate one at a time. I guess to fully inspect the rubber boot at the base of TB is a pain, have to pull all TBs, which I would rather not do. I don't want add'l issues by taking everything apart.
 
I discovered the issue, previous owner had the Map sensor vacuum hoses attached improperly. Two hoses to first TB and one to second. Corrected situation and much better now. Now high idle, probably need to reset TPS. It seems that fixing one issue starts another.
 
I’ve been searching through multiple threads and can not seem to find what I’m looking for. This is probably a dumb question but here it goes.

Where within TuneEcu do you go to adjust the secondary TPS to .6 volts? Im probably seeing it on the screen but don’t know what I’m looking at.

Thanks
 
I’ve been searching through multiple threads and can not seem to find what I’m looking for. This is probably a dumb question but here it goes.

Where within TuneEcu do you go to adjust the secondary TPS to .6 volts? Im probably seeing it on the screen but don’t know what I’m looking at.

Thanks
You only adjust the tps or check it during a ISCV CHECK/RESET moving it Ny other time will just muck things up worse.
 
You only adjust the tps or check it during a ISCV CHECK/RESET moving it Ny other time will just muck things up worse.
Understood, I ran TuneEcu just to check and my TPS is .68v, a little high, secondary is at .65v. I’ll check the throttle bodies first for balancing then run ISCV reset and make my adjustments, as recommended in these threads.
I was just curious with respect to the second TPS adjustment. Once I complete the ISCV reset I can then set the 2nd TPS to .6v correct? Then reset adaptation followed by 12 min tune.

Bike is running fine, just getting things tightened up before spring.

Thanks
 
Understood, I ran TuneEcu just to check and my TPS is .68v, a little high, secondary is at .65v. I’ll check the throttle bodies first for balancing then run ISCV reset and make my adjustments, as recommended in these threads.
I was just curious with respect to the second TPS adjustment. Once I complete the ISCV reset I can then set the 2nd TPS to .6v correct? Then reset adaptation followed by 12 min tune.

Bike is running fine, just getting things tightened up before spring.

Thanks
Your sevondaryies are probably fine. When you check them make sure you hold them shut all the way when you check voltage. Sometimes people think its off but they did not force or hold them shut like the manual says.
 
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