Tach signal r3t?

Hmm, is that on the front of the engine? Could that cause one cylinder only to cut out? I'm not optimistic now, the tach going to zero reading is the puzzling part, PC gets all it's info from the ecu, right? We'll see, I need to do at least a half hour ride to see if it acts up, I thought I fixed it several times now, but didn't ride far enough to get hot. And what would warming up have to do with crank sensor?
Frustrated that I have to work on my own bike, because you can't trust anyone else, I'm no mechanic.
 
Found it at bottom rear of engine. Going for a test ride.
 
Tripps, if your aftermarket gauge is in fact using the coil low tension lead for tach speed signal, when that particular coil drops out, you would lose the signal to the coil and the aftermarket tach.

If it's drawing the signal from the crank position sensor, you may have an issue where the crank sensor has metal swarf stuck to in inside and it can screw up the RPM feed coming off the sensor. It's an easy fix, just unbolt, wipe off, reinstall.

When it drops out will TuneECU still show the correct RPM in the tests screen or does it become erratic?
 
Tripps said:
Hmm, is that on the front of the engine? Could that cause one cylinder only to cut out? I'm not optimistic now, the tach going to zero reading is the puzzling part, PC gets all it's info from the ecu, right?
Click to expand...

Assuming your tach reading is on a Dynojet POD or PCV software, the PCV gets the rpm signal from its plug which splices in between the CPS and the ECU; perhaps this connection is worth examining for fault.


 
Thanks, I think I got it after breakdown on test ride 6 miles into it. Read up on crank sensors, they do act up when hot, too.
So bike lost all spark, engine braked to a stop. Got a ride home and got with trailer. ( Lost irreplaceable piece of trailer, had to go back and find.) Checked fuses first, sure enough, #6, I think, has engine picture, was burnt. Put new fuse in, tried, nothing, new fuse burnt. The reason you can't get that front inner coil connection on, even by feel, is that engine frame member is tight next to and above male connection. Sure enough, it wasn't tight and when it moved at all apparently touched frame. I've accepted that I have to pull that coil to properly attach it. Pretty frustrating day, having a beer and deciding if I should call it a day. Went backwards, kinda, but feel good at least that I figured one thing out. You guys might make a mechanic out of me yet, you never know.
 
It's too intermittent to easily test that, it comes and goes. But that will be my next angle of attack if it persists. PC connection was the first thing I looked at, because mice chewed wire to pod display.
 
Call it. Cookies? Cold beer, you found it, it’s what rocketeers do, congrats mechanic, next stage is when warp ranks you rocket scientist you’re on it
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

R3T with roadster front end.
Replies
3
Views
551
Trekky
R3T and Roadster engine differences...
Replies
7
Views
679
1olbull
R3T Overheated In Driveway
2
Replies
17
Views
1K
Mongler07
2014 R3T de cat
Replies
4
Views
629
Bob R
Opinion wanted, course of action R3T running like a Harley!!!
2
Replies
14
Views
889
Mongler07
Menu
Log in
Register