Suspension questions

[Mittzy]

So you're telling me that when I ride with the stock suspension and hit those uneven bridges that bounce me out of my seat, that wouldn't be nearly as bad with some aftermarket shocks on the bike?

Works for me.

 

[sgl0226]

I just read an article that said changing the preload does not make the ride smoother or stiffer. What it does is level the bike for the intended weight (so that the headlight doesn't point to the sky when you put a passenger and luggage on) and it changes the amount of travel before the bike bottoms out. So when you're loading the bike more heavily you basic raise the back end by adjusting the shock. Then when the bike is loaded it is essentially in the same position that it would be if you were riding the bike by yourself and had the shocks appropriately set.
Am I explaining it correctly? If so, then I think the only way I'm gonna make my wife happy is to buy new shocks (Hagons) or a new bike (Gold Wing).

 

[sassybigboy]

Maxton Shocks

I use theses Maxton Suspension home page they are very good and build to you bike/weight and there service if first class.
Regards
Sas

 

[atomsplitter]

Quick tutorial. Shock preload is set to allow the correct suspension travel. If you set it to 1 click and the shock sags 2.5 inches with you sitting on it and it has a total 4.5 inches of travel, you've used over 50% of the travel just sitting on it. When the shock botoms hitting a small bump it puts the rest of the jolt up your spine. Setting the static sag so it has 15 to 20 mm of sag allows 90% of the shock travel so it takes 4 inches of travel before the jolt hits your spine. Harshness comes from too little travel, or too much compression damping (not allowing the shock to compress). Compression damping rate is set at the factory. If your bike was built with the intended load of two riders then the compression damping is higher since the shock load is higher. If most of your riding is solo a better shock is advised. If your ride is harsh two-up you need to add MORE preload to reduce the sag and add shock travel to allow it to compress. Correct sag adjustment will also improve your bike's handling because it shortens trail. If you want the sharpest available steering go to a 13.5" shock and a dark side tire. You'll have to work very hard to scrape the footboards. My setup, 13.5" and a dark side. (And I smoked a VTX going over the 'dragon' where he beveled his footboards and I never touched down).

 

[sgl0226]

best mod for a rocket is hagon nitros made for your weight I hated my bike till I got those . Too bad I wasted 3 years to figure it out.
O.

Is your bike the Touring? I just heard that Hagon appearantly hasn't done any R&D on the Touring and they only sell for the Standard.

 

[GPMAZ]

Is your bike the Touring? I just heard that Hagon appearantly hasn't done any R&D on the Touring and they only sell for the Standard.

I have Hagons on my R3T. Big improvement over stock and at least marginally better than Progressive 440s.

Virtually any stock motorcycle (except those like some BMW and Ducati models that come Ohlin equipped) will benefit significantly from a suspension upgrade. Your best bet is to have them built to your specification and riding style. That generally means sprung to your weight and things like solo or two up, bags loaded, any additional luggage etc.

 

[sgl0226]

I have Hagons on my R3T. Big improvement over stock and at least marginally better than Progressive 440s.

Virtually any stock motorcycle (except those like some BMW and Ducati models that come Ohlin equipped) will benefit significantly from a suspension upgrade. Your best bet is to have them built to your specification and riding style. That generally means sprung to your weight and things like solo or two up, bags loaded, any additional luggage etc.

Thanks. I just placed the order for the Hagons. I asked the guy at British Customs to check on the part number for Progressive shocks for both the Roadster and the Touring. The part number was the same so we figured the Hagon shocks for the Roadster would work for my Touring.

 

[slidderhd]

Good stuff guys... Thanks..

 

[1olbull]

Quick tutorial. Shock preload is set to allow the correct suspension travel. If you set it to 1 click and the shock sags 2.5 inches with you sitting on it and it has a total 4.5 inches of travel, you've used over 50% of the travel just sitting on it. When the shock botoms hitting a small bump it puts the rest of the jolt up your spine. Setting the static sag so it has 15 to 20 mm of sag allows 90% of the shock travel so it takes 4 inches of travel before the jolt hits your spine. Harshness comes from too little travel, or too much compression damping (not allowing the shock to compress). Compression damping rate is set at the factory. If your bike was built with the intended load of two riders then the compression damping is higher since the shock load is higher. If most of your riding is solo a better shock is advised. If your ride is harsh two-up you need to add MORE preload to reduce the sag and add shock travel to allow it to compress. Correct sag adjustment will also improve your bike's handling because it shortens trail. If you want the sharpest available steering go to a 13.5" shock and a dark side tire. You'll have to work very hard to scrape the footboards. My setup, 13.5" and a dark side. (And I smoked a VTX going over the 'dragon' where he beveled his footboards and I never touched down).

You had me there, Atom and were making great sense; right up until the car tire comment . . .

You must also be gifted with way, way longer legs than I. A 13.5" set of rear shocks would require a foot stab at the pavement with my ass titled over the side of the seat.
Best Regards,
1olbull

 

[atomsplitter]

You had me there, Atom and were making great sense; right up until the car tire comment . . .

You must also be gifted with way, way longer legs than I. A 13.5" set of rear shocks would require a foot stab at the pavement with my ass titled over the side of the seat.
Best Regards,
1olbull

The car tire is only because it has a square edge. When you lean over the back of the bike 'sits up' as the tire goes on edge. The amount of flex in the sidewall differs between brands so one tire may not sit up as high as another. The standard MC tire profile allows the bike to steer nuetrally through the corner (basically allows the rider to take the pressure off the bars). A CT requires you maintain more bar presssure throughout the turn. I'm not advocating someone go to the CT, just that it adds a margin of extra ground clearance in corners. Hence my comment. I'm not going to debate merits of CT over MC tires, that's been beat to death. My comment was only about the added ground clearance afforded.

You are also correct on the longer shock. Stock my feet were flat on the ground with knees bent. Now I'm a straight legged toe tipper.