My observations running a variety of oils are as follows:

Rotella T6 5W-40 - Works great, feels great, needs to be changed by 4000 miles. Shift feel starts to degrade slightly at 3000.
Mobile 1 4T 10W-40- Same thing as Rotella, but shift feel doesn't start to degrade until 4000, so change at 5000.
Amsoil Marine/Diesel 15W-40 - As recommended by Carpenter, feels by FAR the best when new. By 4000 it starts to feel slightly worse, change by 5000.
Castrol as used at the dealer (whatever that mystery oil is)- Seemed to work fine, wasn't able to ride long enough to find the break down point

Any good ester based synthetic is appropriate as long as it doesn't have the friction modifiers of passenger car oil. The thing with the Rocket, is the oil temps do NOT get very high. I've looked at 4 different bike oil temperatures, all were between 170f and 180f, even after playing on curvy roads where it's hung above the typical cruise RPM of 3000 and under for extended periods.

Due to low oil temps, on a bike that will never see track-like conditions, I do not see a point in picking an oil based on weight because of season/environment.

I will offer this as well, my engine upon tearing it down this summer, looked nearly new. There is no oil staining on the aluminum, sludge, or undesirable build up anywhere. I change between 3000-4000 miles, regardless of oil type or when it is still golden, but has visible black particulate in it. The particulate build-up has slowed drastically since installing the crank-case evacuation system, so I'll be doing it by mileage at 4000 or season (every spring) if it has under 4000 on it.

The 2006 engine I have, serviced at the dealer by the previous owner (presumably had the oil changed every 10k miles-ish), was stained and has sludge/buildup everywhere. A coat of oil scum covered EVERYTHING inside the engine.

2014 - 19,700 miles at tear down
2006 - 28,000 miles at tear down

It's hard to believe the difference with only a 8,300 mile difference between the two.

The most important thing is change it before the 10k "interval".
 
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I use the 15w50 motul. Have used it for years,,,there are a lot of good lubricants out there as noted in these replies. The key for me is to change oil frequently and it shouldn’t matter which one you pick.
 
Name brand, wet clutch compatible......BAM good to go.

Don't buy into the hype, you can pay more but you don't always get more.
 
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My observations running a variety of oils are as follows:

Rotella T6 5W-40 - Works great, feels great, needs to be changed by 4000 miles. Shift feel starts to degrade slightly at 3000.
Mobile 1 4T 10W-40- Same thing as Rotella, but shift feel doesn't start to degrade until 4000, so change at 5000.
Amsoil Marine/Diesel 15W-40 - As recommended by Carpenter, feels by FAR the best when new. By 4000 it starts to feel slightly worse, change by 5000.
Castrol as used at the dealer (whatever that mystery oil is)- Seemed to work fine, wasn't able to ride long enough to find the break down point

Any good ester based synthetic is appropriate as long as it doesn't have the friction modifiers of passenger car oil. The thing with the Rocket, is the oil temps do NOT get very high. I've looked at 4 different bike oil temperatures, all were between 170f and 180f, even after playing on curvy roads where it's hung above the typical cruise RPM of 3000 and under for extended periods.

Due to low oil temps, on a bike that will never see track-like conditions, I do not see a point in picking an oil based on weight because of season/environment.

I will offer this as well, my engine upon tearing it down this summer, looked nearly new. There is no oil staining on the aluminum, sludge, or undesirable build up anywhere. I change between 3000-4000 miles, regardless of oil type or when it is still golden, but has visible black particulate in it. The particulate build-up has slowed drastically since installing the crank-case evacuation system, so I'll be doing it by mileage at 4000 or season (every spring) if it has under 4000 on it.

The 2006 engine I have, serviced at the dealer by the previous owner (presumably had the oil changed every 10k miles-ish), was stained and has sludge/buildup everywhere. A coat of oil scum covered EVERYTHING inside the engine.

2014 - 19,700 miles at tear down
2006 - 28,000 miles at tear down

It's hard to believe the difference with only a 8,300 mile difference between the two.

The most important thing is change it before the 10k "interval".
I hope mine looks good when you open, Lucas synthetic motorcycle racing 20/50
 
Name brand, wet clutch compatible......BAM good to go.

Don't buy into the hype, you can pay more but you don't always get more.

Usually true, not all are created equal, some actually do deliver better protection (Amsiol Marine/Diesel being one of them, as is 300v). The racing oils aren't constrained by the EPA requirements applied to oils like Moblie 1 4T, and almost universally offer better protection because they have correct levels of things like ZDDP etc.
 
My observations running a variety of oils are as follows:

Rotella T6 5W-40 - Works great, feels great, needs to be changed by 4000 miles. Shift feel starts to degrade slightly at 3000.
Mobile 1 4T 10W-40- Same thing as Rotella, but shift feel doesn't start to degrade until 4000, so change at 5000.
Amsoil Marine/Diesel 15W-40 - As recommended by Carpenter, feels by FAR the best when new. By 4000 it starts to feel slightly worse, change by 5000.
Castrol as used at the dealer (whatever that mystery oil is)- Seemed to work fine, wasn't able to ride long enough to find the break down point

Any good ester based synthetic is appropriate as long as it doesn't have the friction modifiers of passenger car oil. The thing with the Rocket, is the oil temps do NOT get very high. I've looked at 4 different bike oil temperatures, all were between 170f and 180f, even after playing on curvy roads where it's hung above the typical cruise RPM of 3000 and under for extended periods.

Due to low oil temps, on a bike that will never see track-like conditions, I do not see a point in picking an oil based on weight because of season/environment.

I will offer this as well, my engine upon tearing it down this summer, looked nearly new. There is no oil staining on the aluminum, sludge, or undesirable build up anywhere. I change between 3000-4000 miles, regardless of oil type or when it is still golden, but has visible black particulate in it. The particulate build-up has slowed drastically since installing the crank-case evacuation system, so I'll be doing it by mileage at 4000 or season (every spring) if it has under 4000 on it.

The 2006 engine I have, serviced at the dealer by the previous owner (presumably had the oil changed every 10k miles-ish), was stained and has sludge/buildup everywhere. A coat of oil scum covered EVERYTHING inside the engine.

2014 - 19,700 miles at tear down
2006 - 28,000 miles at tear down

It's hard to believe the difference with only a 8,300 mile difference between the two.

The most important thing is change it before the 10k "interval".

And here I was going to make light of, yet, another oil thread but, in fact, I did learn something new.:thumbsup:

p.s. I estimate 12 pages come from this post. Any other predictions?
 
Anybody ever read through the motorcycle section, on the "Bob is the oil guy" forum. Some interesting used oil analysis reports on there. It was because of info from there that I switched from rotella t6 to t4 (synthetic base3 to the non syn). Shows to be more shear stable. I know the t6 would drain out like water from a warm engine. I'm a fair weather rider, and don't put on more than 5000km per short Canadian season, so long change intervals aren't important to me. Anyway long story short, there's some good reading at bitog forum, about both oil and filters.
I think 12 pages is a bit high Journeyman, I'm gonna go with 7. If you were closer I'd bet you a cup of Tim Hortons coffee "eh"!
Dean
 
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Run Mobil 4T 10/40 along with a wix filter made for synthetic oil. Do change the oil every 5,000 miles which i believe is a overkill. Ran a Fatboy with mobil 20/50 never had a issue. Easy to find just about every auto store including walmart sells the oil and filter. When i installed the new cams the cam ladder looked like it was brand new. No marks at all so it must be working rather well. Oh yea that was at 45,000 miles. Now at 60,000 plus no issues. :):):):):):):):):)(2015 Rocket X one owner)
 
Anybody ever know of anyone that had an oil related problem? Not neglect but direct fault of the "correct" engine oil? I've been riding 35 years and don't know of anyone that has. We all seem to change way to early by the oil samples I've had tested and seen tested.
 
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