Removing cylinder head

m6w6

.040 Over
Joined
Jun 8, 2017
Messages
77
Location
Neufeld an der Leitha, Austria
Ride
2009 Touring
Hey there!

Is it possible to remove the cylinder head with the camshafts still attached while the engine is still in the bike?

Or asked differently:

What MUST be removed from the bike/engine to lift the head?

Thanks in advance!
 
Cams MUST come out to remove/install head. Can be done with engine in frame. Currently have mine off for performance enhancements.
There is a ton of parts that have to come off to get the head off. Gas tank, intake plumbing, oil tank, throttle bodies, exhaust, radiator, ect...
 
The frame can be removed from the engine without even taking the rocker cover off. Instructions are in the manual in my signature.
 
Cams have to come out to get to the head bolts.

Oil tank does not need to come off to remove the head, even when block is still in frame, contrary to the manual. Might be a shade easier without the oil tank in the way, but it's not necessary.

Can be done with engine block still in frame.

Frame can also be lifted off engine without opening engine.

What is your objective?
 
Investigating damage caused by an apparently slipped chain :banghead:

Well the good news is you can check cam/valve timing before removing the head, only the cam cover and crank nose inspection port cover need come off the engine to check timing.

I'd imagine if you find that timing is still correct, then there is no need to remove the cams or head.

You can also check chain tensioner drop as per the manual, except with a calipers instead of the Triumph tool. Only need to remove the big centre nut.
Anything more than 16mm drop and the spacer is needed to restore correct tensioner spring pressure.
If the tensioner was not holding up for whatever reason, the chain could jump teeth or 'slip'.

What are the symptoms of the problem?
Curious as to why someone suggested an apparently slipped chain.
 
That's my suggestion, unfortunately.
Measured no compression at all. Tensioner measured fine, but I'll redo and post numbers. Bike did less than 20K km.
I have to verify a third time, but this is the timing at TDC:
IMG_20210423_134938.jpg IMG_20210423_134943.jpg
 
Hard to tell from the angle but if the crank is indeed at TDC on #1, that does look well off.
Wonder what caused the timing to become incorrect.
Did this happen suddenly while riding along, or...?

 
Coincidentally (?) 2km after jumping a big bump in the road.

The tensioner measures 19,2mm/54,7mm now, while I'm pretty sure it measured 53,3mm the first time.

Yes, TDC, it should be:
IMG_20210428_101429.jpg
 
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