re-fitting engine.. advice needed please

[El Bruto]

ok.. so ive re-built the motor.. still waiting for output shaft bearing and cam chain guides...

I know I cant fit engine until output shaft is done... but..

Engine is all dressed and painted so I want to know the correct way to re-fit... getting it was a ball ache!!

The swing arm is disconnected on both sides so well out of the way, the head is still off as I intend to fit that once the motor is in to reduce the handling weight.

So, the question is.. what's the best way to get the engine back in without damaging the new paint too much... can anyone do me a few pencil sketched diagrams as to angles to get it in and in what order?
Cant find any specifics in the manual..

Thanks in advance

 

[warp9.9]

Lower the bike onto the engine that is strapped to a ATV jack works great could slow control lining things up. Goes on easily

hope this helps I can draw worth a crap

 

[idk]

I did similar to Scott. Put the motor on an ATV jack and lower the bike frame onto it. I used two ratchet systems, one at either end, which makes lining it up easy. You lower it down fairly evenly, but front first. Insert the long bolt which attaches the front of the engine to the frame, then lower the back and attach it. Be careful of the sensors in the back of the engine as you are doing so.

 

[ozrider]

Best to have it all back together before putting it in the frame,
I didn't have a overhead gantry like @warp9.9 with the engine on the ATV lift I lifted the rear of the bike up with an engine crane, pivoting up on the front wheel, insert front through bolt and as it rotates up or down it clears the engine mounts at the rear.... here is a few pics

 

[El Bruto]

Yeah.. great.. and can see where ive gone wrong.. still got front wheel on.. and frame is not level.. And not got a jack of any sort.

 

[ozrider]

Yeah.. great.. and can see where ive gone wrong.. still got front wheel on.. and frame is not level.. And not got a jack of any sort.

with the front wheel on the ground you can lift the rear of the bike up with a couple of people as it isn't very heavy to pivot up with everything disconnected, you will need someone to support the engine though

 

[idk]

I agree with @ozrider, put the engine back together before putting the bike back on it.

 

[sonny]

Very impressed. Hopefully will never have to remove or reinstall the engine but at worse we have a good idea of how to go about it.

 

[warp9.9]

I usually just hang the throttle bodies from the handle bars so I do not need to take the throttle cables off. that being said in the pictures above I can see the throttle bodies on the shelf in the back with the supercharger plenum still attached. And in the second picture I the supercharger tied up between the neck frame so I would say this time I did not or wanted to try to leave all the traction fluid piping alone. If I were you I would put the head on and drop the cams in. You can do it when it is in the frame but it is much easier out and it does not effect installing the engine. Like Ian said you have to watch sensors and leave the Oil sensor in the rear of the head out until you the everything in. It is easy to break!!!!!!!!!!!The stuff like the clutch and clutch cover it does not matter. I usually have mine off because of inspection prior to repair. Its always a good thing as you would not want to pull the engine just to find you only had a broken detent spring.


As for your question about the oil holes on the output shaft of the transmission (in the other thread you posted). The book does state you will reduce the oil pressure and the gear lubrication. I know it sucks having to open her back up but if you are not sure it would also suck riding around wondering if your on a transmission is going to turn into a Rock Crusher. Your choice but I would open her up myself.

 

[Rocket Scientist]

Also before setting the frame fully down on the engine, try to get all the electrical connections at the the rear of the engine reconnected and routed so you don't pinch them.