Let me rephase
Do not mess with anything until u have a fully charged battery
And yes the stepper motor may not be working with 10 volts or less.
The fuel pump may nott be working with 10 volts or less.
Ect
Ect
Ect.
Also, I had a weak damaged, recharged battery that failed to start the bike. The bat was damaged by letting it discharge by letting the ignition ON over night. New battery solved the problem.
 
12.6 volts
Both batteries read 12.8-12.85 at rest, 12.35-12.45 with the lights on and when it tries to start drops below 10. I was having zero battery issues when I started the process with the valve cover gasket and it turned right on when I ran the 24 minutes cycle 2 weeks ago on the RamAir. I'm also getting a Check Engine Light now.
Got it started once today, but had to give it throttle. It does not want to idle.
Hate piping in when so many have commented. Don't want to confuse you any more than we might have. Remember these are only suggestions based on what we have read from the symptoms we have seen.

Since the bike ran well before you worked on it recheck all your electrical connections. Is the TPS still plugged in fully? What about each of the throttle body connectors? Coil primary wires. Map sensor connectors, etc etc. Is it possible you pinched some wires between the valve cover and cylinder head (you did say there was some smoke which I dismissed as coming from a backfire but now I'm wondering if it could have been a pinched wire)??? Could you take a few pics of the wires in and around the head, valve cover, throttle bodies, etc. look closely to see if the connections are slightly unplugged when you were shuffling the wires around to change that gasket.

I would also refrain from playing with the main idle adjustment screw since it worked before. If holding the throttle open won't allow it to idle, moving that screw won't also. You need to determine why the bike won't idle and I'm guessing it is connection related. Finally, ensure your voltage doesn't drop too much while cranking. Below 10 volts is a bit low. Hook both batteries you have up in parallel if need be.
 
Everyone, thank you for your help. I gave up and finally just connected the new battery to the old battery and it started up. I had went a 4-5 days without riding in the summer and it always started right up. I guess two weeks was too much for it.
One of my initial problems when the valve cover gasket started spewing oil is I lost my rear brake on the way home. I can't imagine I'd lost it before then. It does provide a tiny amount of pressure when I press down on it, but it isn't doing much of anything. I also put two brand new ECBs on the back since the original incident, because the ones that were there had to be the originals. Did oil get into something on the rear brake pedal? I checked the brake fluid and pulled the bag and top off and there is fluid in there. Any suggestions what might have happened?
 
glad it is running :thumbsup:
i would try to bleed the rear brakes probably has air in there.
oil on brake pads might give a prob.
ps i can let mine set a month an it cranks better. must be the battery.
 
I used a flathead to push the rear caliper open and whatever it did it worked. The rear brakes started working again. I like the sound of the RamAir. I didn't put the BearClaw back on. It sounded like a chopper taking off versus the usual silence. Hopefully, it is supposed to sound like that. Amazing how many parts are in the original system to accomplish the same thing.
I'm chalking this whole experience up to
gremlin.jpg
that got into my garage and messed with the bike.
 
Everyone, thank you for your help. I gave up and finally just connected the new battery to the old battery and it started up. I had went a 4-5 days without riding in the summer and it always started right up. I guess two weeks was too much for it.
One of my initial problems when the valve cover gasket started spewing oil is I lost my rear brake on the way home. I can't imagine I'd lost it before then. It does provide a tiny amount of pressure when I press down on it, but it isn't doing much of anything. I also put two brand new ECBs on the back since the original incident, because the ones that were there had to be the originals. Did oil get into something on the rear brake pedal? I checked the brake fluid and pulled the bag and top off and there is fluid in there. Any suggestions what might have happened?
 

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Remove the rear caliper from the bike and clean it well. Best is to disassemble and polish clean the cylinders with only brake fluid. No scratches please. Seals can be cleaned, lubed with Brembo grease and reassembled, correctly. Better yet, replace them. There are several good posts and videos on the subject "Hot rear brakes". Dirt is the enemy of your calipers. Cleanliness is godliness. Refresh your brake fluid and don't contaminate your discs or pads. Best Self service one can do. Once you do the rear, do the fronts.

Calipers are like pistols. Must be cleaned carefully and often.
 
I've been able to get the bike to drive fine once I got the battery charged some. In the time it was out of commission I would say the nightly temperature dropped 20 degrees. I'm thinking that might be part of the reason I'm really having trouble starting it. I have to give it a little throttle to maintain idle. Right now its like 25 degrees at night, so I'm recharging.

My Lonelec cable finally showed up. It is very hard to get things back and forth to the UK currently. I got my error codes back. Again, the bike is running good except for it being hard to start. Do I clear these codes out? I'm unfamiliar if I touched anything in the RamAir process with regards to the first one, but I know the other codes had parts involved in the process.
P0560- ECM Power Supply - Circuit Malfunction
P0352 and 3 - Ignition Coil 2&3 - Circuit Malfunction
P1105- Mapsensor Pipe fail
I've had the Check Engine Light on since I added the RamAir, so any help would be greatly appreciated, and if this is tied to the starting issue as well?

Are there any tunes I should do if the only thing that has been changed is RamAir?
 
I would say to clear codes now that u know what they are.
do not load maps until u get the problems solved.
a battery below 10 volts when cranking may set codes.
 
Like TURBO said, If you have had issues trying to start with a low battery, it very well may set codes. I have had that happen when trying to start the bike to head to work after nights in the teens and I forget to plug in the tender to help keep the battery warm. Once I finally get the bike to start the check engine light comes on. I have two choices...reset the codes or just ride it out. They will usually clear after 3 or 4 successful start shutdown sequences. The low voltage causes the ECU to shutdown and depending on what it's doing when that happens it gets confused and sets weird codes, definitely the 560 one though.
I agree clear the codes and then see if anything pops back up. Real issues will reappear/pop the codes again. flukes or hiccups usually stay gone!
 
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