Putting front cover back on and adjusting clutch

Torpedo

.040 Over
Joined
Oct 15, 2012
Messages
60
Hey guys. I'm getting ready to put the front cover on after upgrading the clutch springs. I have a couple questions.

1. I can set the preload at 1/4 turn or 1/2 to 3/4. Depending on lifter rod placement. Does it matter which? I don't want to preload the spring too much.
2. Should I hook the clutch cable to the arm/cover before installing it on the block?
3. Once in place, what's the best way to adjust the clutch cable (in a step by step fashion). I loosened the nuts that hold the clutch cable to the bracket that mounts on the front cover.
4. Lifter rod goes behind mushroom head on clutch rod? (pulls center clutch rod fwd with actuation) I'm 99% that's the case.

It's my first time doing it and I don't want to muck it up. Please be patient. I've got the rest down.
 
Number 1: The preload is determined by the spring location and should only be one position available. This should be enough to pull the lifter rod away from the lifter piece and push the cable back to the lever. It takes over from the actual clutch springs in the open position, and gives that last push to the lever.

Number 2: No, I don't think so.

Number 3: To adjust clutch line the components up with location marks and allow 2mm at the lever. Make sure you have the lever adjustment at Number 1 out of the 4 available. When replacing the front cover, rotate the lifter shaft so that it will accept the lifter piece as you place it on the engine. When it is on you should be able to feel the clearance (between the shaft and piece) in the arm that the cable goes on.

Number 4: Yes, once in position you just rotate it back to the activation position.
 
Torpedo Hey guys. I'm getting ready to put the front cover on after upgrading the clutch springs. I have a couple questions.

1. I can set the preload at 1/4 turn or 1/2 to 3/4. Depending on lifter rod placement. Does it matter which? I don't want to preload the spring too much.
Its been a while since I used a internal return spring but you want enough preload that it moves the lifter shaft clockwise toward the motor the idea is to not have pressure on the lifter shft and lifter piece when clutch is fully closed. below is the return spring mod I use you can buy the spring at ace hardware. This does not mean you have to do this I just came up with it because I had a broken spring and forgot to order one.



2. Should I hook the clutch cable to the arm/cover before installing it on the block?
Yes hook cable on clutch arm before putting it on the spline I leave the bracket off until I put the cable on the arm and the arm on the lifter shaft

3. Once in place, what's the best way to adjust the clutch cable (in a step by step fashion). I loosened the nuts that hold the clutch cable to the bracket that mounts on the front cover.
make sure cable is loose before starting move adjuster all the way in on the clutch lever. once everything is on start adjusting the cable by turning adjuster outwards. When soem tension start to take up pull clutch lever in a few times to make sur ething geat seated then check free play which should be 2 to 3 mm



I also found it easier to check free play buy this method .
hold clutch lever out fully and measure the gap on the ferrel attached to the cable sheath.
like below
note cable ferrel is all the way in



now pull cable sheath out and check free play measurement like below



See the gap between the knurled adjuster and the aluminum ferrel look like about 1/8 inch. which is almost 3mm

4. Lifter rod goes behind mushroom head on clutch rod? (pulls center clutch rod fwd with actuation) I'm 99% that's the case.

Correct you will have to skoop the lifter pice up with the lifter shaft as the clutch cover goes on. if cover does not go on and up to the maiting surface you did not get the lifter piece in the lifter shaft groove. its fairly easy but might tak you a couple times. do this before attaching cable and clutch actuator arm it will be easier.

It's my first time doing it and I don't want to muck it up. Please be patient. I've got the rest down.[/QUOTE]

take your time and do not rush it and you will be fine. I used permatex to attach the gasket to the cover so it would be easier and stay in place. you can also do it on the block your choice.

Hope this helps the most important thing is take your time and don't get frustrated. you will be laughing at how easy it is when you get done
 
I have the tripp billet shaft so the actuator arm is pinned to the lifter shaft. I guess I'll have to hook up the cable afterwards? Scott. In the picture as long as the cable has the play, then the clutch handle can be butted up?

So a half turn preload on the spring is better than too little?
 
you might get away with hooking the cable up befor going in withthe cover that way you can rotate the shaft furth to inser the cable. and withthe chrom bracket not bolted on the cover and case you might get away with it. If not you will have to shorten the cable sheath via the adjusting nuts down by the engine to give more slack. Just make sure you measure how much thread is hanging out so you can get it close to what you had. That is why the adjutment is there for the outer sheath. it can be increased in length if your cable would stretch over time. likewise it can be shortened as needed . You will notice in my picuters I have as little of the adjusting knurled nut out as possible. IMO this makes it stronger since its a split thread.
 
I loosened the two nuts but didn't mark were they were on the cable. I guess at this point just put the cover on and then hook up the cable. What a mess. I wasn't thinking.
 
Torpedo said:
I loosened the two nuts but didn't mark were they were on the cable. I guess at this point just put the cover on and then hook up the cable. What a mess. I wasn't thinking.
Click to expand...

No probs, I never mark mine either, like Scott I prefer to have lever adjuster mainly screwed in, stronger yes but neater too.
 
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