Paint Can Rattle Paranoia

If you did not change the valve springs I would just modify the auto tensioner so it will not kick back. its a easy job if someone has axcess to a lathe. And yes once you release the tension your cam timing will be off especially if you have slotted timing gears so you can dial the cams in.
You can however do the auto tensioner modification without losing the timing because you do not release the cam chain tension.

Below is the unmodified OEM center nut from the tensioner notice the dowel pin the keeps the spring on center. This spring is what makes the auto tensioner adjust to the next ratchet position.



Below is a modified center nut to include a 1/4-20UNC stud which can be adjusted to the bottom of the tensioner plunger which when double nutted will not allow the tensioner to kick back.



Below is a picture showing the old and the new with the jam nuts one for locking and the acorn nut to pretty things up a bit.



Below is a picture of it installed on My bike as I have do not used the manual one. Mostly because I do not trust myself to adjust it right or to remember to adjust it.



Now for the disclaimer

This modification is to keep the tensioner from releasing causing catostrophic failure, It is not to force any adjustment of the tensioner as forcing adjustment could cause falure due to forcing the movement of the guide when no movement is needed . This most likely will cause something to break which most likely will be the cam chain guide. To use this mod is to run the stud to the bottom of the tensioner plunger and then back it off 1/2 to 3/4 turn and double nut it. This prevents the tensioner from inadvertantly releasing causing a collision between the valves and pistions

If any of this is confusing let me know and I will try to explain better!!!!

I made one ! It was soooooo easy !!!!!! (said in my best t.v. commercial voice)

quote="Rocket Scientist, post: 227831, member: 2026"]I made one ! It was soooooo easy !!!!!! (said in my best t.v. commercial voice) [/quote]
I remmeber talking you thru it

After all It is a Warp Aerospace upgrade

warp9.9 said:

Below is a modified center nut to include a 1/4-20UNC stud which can be adjusted to the bottom of the tensioner plunger which when double nutted will not allow the tensioner to kick back.

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Is the 1/4" bit key in anyway Scott - or would M6 do? Any particular steel grade for the studding? - Mine is not making noises - but KNOWING is the key to the future.

[/quote] Rattle on the oil tank side is most likely the lifter piece rattling in the liffter shaft. the older lifter pieces had smaller heads on them which added to the sloppy fit and extra movement in the lifter shaft. This can be amplified if the lifter shafts segement arm is set in such a position that the liftershaft rolls all the way back on release of the clutch hitting the top of the lifter piece. Hope this does not confuse anyone as there is more to proper clutch action then just the free play. Free play is howerver verry important when it comes to liftershaft lifespan.[/quote]

Tanks Warp, I think this is probably what I am hearing then, knowing this is going to make the beer tast better this arvo. Tomcat, The bikes done 35,000ml / 60,000 km but from what has been posted I don't think the cam is what I'm hearing then. May look at a cam kit @ about 90,000km's just to be safe though. Thanks guys all posts were helpfull!!!

Scott whats the full length of the headless bolt and how much of it needs to be threaded

I have the part number for an identical ( but not original Triumph spare) cam chain ... sing out if you do decide to do your cam chain, less than half the Original Triumph chain. I ordered but didn't need the bottom sprocket or tensioner blade. Found that both were ok when I replaced my cam chain.

barbagris said:

Is the 1/4" bit key in anyway Scott - or would M6 do? Any particular steel grade for the studding? - Mine is not making noises - but KNOWING is the key to the future.

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after pulling the pin 1/4- 20 was the closest size bolt that would work as you need material in the hole for the Tap drill size. In this case .201/ it also was the closest to the original pin diameter. So any metric thread not exceding the .250 major diameter will work. The actual OEM pin diameter was 5.96 mm

TOMCAT said:

I have the part number for an identical ( but not original Triumph spare) cam chain ... sing out if you do decide to do your cam chain, less than half the Original Triumph chain. I ordered but didn't need the bottom sprocket or tensioner blade. Found that both were ok when I replaced my cam chain.

Click to expand...

No prob...thanks.

How long is the stud and the thread ,also are you using a copper washer on the 1/4" nut to stop it leaking oil?