Oily sump - [now sticky: excellent explanations of case separation and input shaft removal]

warp9.9

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@warp9.9 I have my sump off now.

  • Can I reuse the screen bolts if I use blue Loctite?

  • Are you saying to use blue Loctite on *all* the bolts, including perimeter, or just on the screen bolts?

  • How careful do you need to be with brake cleaner in contact with the painted surface of the sump?

Thanks- Blake

Yes, reuse the sump screen bolts with blue thread locker (doesn't have to be Loctite, it can be Permatex or any other brand just make sure its blue medium strength). I just hung the sump up from a wire and sprayed the heck out of her to include the casting channels.

No need to use thread locker on the perimeter bolts or any other bolts. Make sure you pull the pressure pump out and you will see a bolt underneath: it's the one that messes with people when the try to split the cases. Do Not use the jack bolt ears on the input shaft they will break off. Newer manuals show a slap wrench on the end of the input shaft to remove it. I didn't have a newer manual, so I just used a brass drift to knock the input shaft out from the inside. A slap wrench will be easier.

[below is that bolt I was referring to]

2011_0905_140827.JPG
 
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Journeyman28778

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I'm not splitting the cases, but good for those who will to know.

I'm just installing Lush pistons. The sump gasket looks great, so I'm thinking of reusing it, or am I just asking for trouble?

Thank you for the tips about the bolt locations for the sump (earlier in this thread). I started levering on mine and stopped just short of going too far. Went back this morning and saw two grime covered bolts that I missed. I wish I had read your detailed description with photos before this step- it would have saved me some time and potential damage to the sump.
 

warp9.9

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I'm not splitting the cases, but good for those who will to know.

I'm just installing Lush pistons. The sump gasket looks great, so I'm thinking of reusing it, or am I just asking for trouble?

Thank you for the tips about the bolt locations for the sump (earlier in this thread). I started levering on mine and stopped just short of going too far. Went back this morning and saw two grime covered bolts that I missed. I wish I had read your detailed description with photos before this step- it would have saved me some time and potential damage to the sump.
that's right your engine is still in, its Billy's that is being split I am helping him thru his munched transmission problems. Man I am getting old and forgetful :D
 

Joesmoe

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@warp9.9 Please help me understand your statement: "Do not use the jack bolt ears on the input shaft . . ." What are "jack bolt ears" ?
 

Joesmoe

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Wow - thank you !

So, just to understand, I see two ears there, and those have "drift pins" in them ? What is their purpose, with the other star bolts there ?

Why did they not work out well for Triumph ? Did you use something else when you reassembled your engines ?
 

Journeyman28778

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that's right your engine is still in, its Billy's that is being split I am helping him thru his munched transmission problems. Man I am getting old and forgetful :D

Not at all- I'm jumping in on his post with a semi-related question. You probably always have multiple assists going on at any one time. Definitely helped me out on a number of occasions.....
 

warp9.9

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Wow - thank you !

So, just to understand, I see two ears there, and those have "drift pins" in them ? What is their purpose, with the other star bolts there ?

Why did they not work out well for Triumph ? Did you use something else when you reassembled your engines ?

Actually there are threads in the ears. After you remove the three torx bolts, the idea was to screw one in each ear to jack the input shaft out of the engine case hole. The ears turned out to be too weak. So then Triumph whent to using a slap wrench to pull the shaft out. If the ears break off just toss them and next time use the slap wrench method. Most owners now have new manuals so the manual shows the new pulling method.
 

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