Oil type?

Mobil 1 automotive oil 0W40 goes in all my bikes except for the GT 550 which gets Bell Ray (two stroke) duh. I've been using Mobil 1 automotive for 30 years in all kinds of different bikes from Norton's to super singles. When Mobil came out with their 0W40 I switched to the lighter weight. I've never had clutch slippage in any bike. Hell I never replaced a clutch in any of my bikes and many have seen 40 + thousand miles.
 
10,000 miles or once a year in the fall before you put the bike away, assuming you use the recommended synthetic.
 
I go the full 10k synthetic service interval. Have been running Mobil 1 in the Cooper S for 110k and change it at 15k intervals. Changing out synthetic as often as conventional oil is defeating the purpose.
Conventional oil works as well as any synthetic oil up to 3-5k miles, synthetic doesn't even start breaking down at 15k, it's the filter and additives that begin to disintegrate between 15-20k.
So if you are going to change the oil at 3k anyway, you might as well stick with conventional oils and save money. Tossing out Mobil 1 with less than 10k on it is a waste.
But there are some that will never be convinced.

If I ever see that zero weight Mobil in 4T I'll be sure to get it.... I love thin oils for overhead cams. Light weight oil shoots to the wear areas on start up like a flash.
 
oil pressure

Hellfire,
I recently had a weird oil pressure problem with my Honda Civic car.
I could'nt figure out why my oil pressure light kept coming on when I accelerated from a red light or stop sign.
I took off the oil pan to check the oil pump filter, it was clean as a whistle, I changed the oil pressure sensor that did not help.
I asked a mechanic friend what he thought it could be and he said what weight oil did you put in? I had put in 5W20.
That was the problem, as soon as I changed the oil to a thicker 10W 40 the oil pressure light turned off and has stayed off ever since.
So just be careful about putting thinner oil in your engines, if the pressure is too low, the pump will not be sending oil to critical areas.
Something to consider thats all.
I will be sticking with the recommended oil thickness as required by Triumph .
 
I'm sorry dude, but that makes no sense to me at all. No offense intended, but I'm baffled by the logic. Little import motors are notorious for their variable oil pressure increasing with RPM, and oil pressure dropping while accelerating or cornering would usually be blamed on oil sloshing in the pan from lack of baffles or low levels. I'm at a loss as to how your mechanic arrived at the conclusion that the oil was too thin and causes low pressure under acceleration. Someone would have to explain the theory behind that conclusion for me to accept it. Maybe you could get more info on the idea for us because as long as the bearings in an engine are in tolerance, kerosene should maintain lube pressures.
 
oil pressure

All I know is that after I changed to thicker oil the oil light went off.
Maybe the bearings are starting to go and its losing pressure that way.
The Honda has 325,000 kms (202,000miles) on it now so yes they are probably starting to wear.
Who knows ??I just wanted to let you know what happened.
 
I'm sure there will be differing opinion on this but do folks change their oil at the end of the riding season or at the beginning of the new riding season and why. Thanks.
 
Now that makes sense .... alot of gaps to fill at that age. I'm old and I have lots of gaps to fill. LOL
 
Molinoman Do you have any numbers to go with Castrol? Mobil 1 or Castrol 7 of what. Thank you, have a good day. Lunatic
 
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