I use a Turbo diesel oil as it does not have the friction modifiers in it and has plenty of good stuff for wear protection. Next I will be trying some Joe Gibbs racing oil which is a wee bit priceier then the diesel oils but my beast is worth it.
as for oil numbers I think you will find the number before the W is the way the viscosity acts in the winter and the next number is the summer weight viscosity.
 
I've been reading the issues cconcerning the different motor oils...I agree that whatever oil is used that it should have a wet clutch rating, and also lighter weights in the colder climates to aid in the engine starting. One other opinion I would like to share is ,years ago, I worked for an air compressor co. and used to service industrial air compressors of up to 200 hp motors. Some of these compressors would hold 55gal of oil..When I would change the oil in these units, the folks that used regular non synthetic oil had much varnish buildup on the inside and internal rotating parts...So much so that I could scrape it off with my fingernails. On the other hand, the compressors that used full synthetic oil had spotless internal parts! From that point on I am a believer and use full synthetic oils in all my vehicles.
 
Looks like Micksan uses Amsoil and I was going to go with that too but it was rated API SG rather than SH (which is the higher standard) so I didn't. Amsoil was a pioneer in synthetics and still have a very good reputation so I'm guessing it's absolutely fine.
 
4T doesn't really have anything to do with the transmission or clutch. It is the designation for 4 stroke engine oil.


2T is or two stroke, 4T is for four stroke.

Almost all on-road motorcycles are 4stroke. So you meet the 4T designation with any brand of oil that is for a four stroke application - whether it specifies the letters "4T" or not.

What kills wet clutches sometimes is friction modifiers.

I your oil is designed for wet clutches and has no friction modifiers, then it is OK for use.

Now the debate has been raging for decades now. I have personally met people with 200,000 miles on gold wings using only basic synthetic car oil. So everyone has an opinion on this matter.

My opinion is that it is not worth the risk to save $20 at oil change. Just get a good motorcycle oil that specifically supports wet clutches and you are better off. It's just not worth it to experiment for a few dollars in savings.

Use Motorcycle specific oil formulated for wet clutch applications and all is good!

--
"Officer, I know I was going faster than 55mph, but I wasn't going to be on the road an hour." -Steven Wright

Posted from my iPhone using the "Tapatalk" app.
Motor cycle engine oils are usually sitting right next to each other on the shelf and the JASO-MA rated oils for wet clutch 4 stroke engines are recognized at a glance with the motorcycle 4T label. JASO-MA isn't made in 2 stroke (2T) since the clutch isn't wet and obviously does not sit in the crankcase. JASO-MB has the friction modifiers and is for dry clutch or automobile use only, those oils are not labeled for motorcycles unless it's something manufacturer specific like those HP Honda engines that have separate crankcase and transmission oils for slippery high temp upper and grabby, thick, low temp gear lubrication. So when you look to buy Castrol, Mobil 1, etc. bike oil.... the "Motorcycle 4T" print on the label is most likely going to be wet clutch, circulated engine oil rated JASO-MA.
So you can try to remember JASO-MA vs JASO-MB, (4-stroke) or JASO-FA,-FB,-FC (2-stroke) when choosing oil ... or just buy some "motorcycle 4T".

I was trying to make it easy to remember since you can't go wrong if you just buy some 4T in your favorite brand of bike oil. ;)
NoWut I meen thur Vern? :D
 
Oil Thread

Nothing like a good oil thread, they tend to last for years because everyone has their own favorite brand and opinion. Here is my two cents. For the past couple of years I had been using Amsoil 20/50 in both my Triumphs (Rocket & Scrambler). I got tired of trying to hunt it down and the cost so I went back to Mobile 1 4T. I used to get it at Wally World but they have stopped selling the brand. All Auto Zones carry it around $9.99 a quart and sometimes much cheaper on sale. The last time around I did drop down to a 10/40 weight and it's probably just be my imagination, but both bikes seem to shift a little better and crank over quicker. Sadly I have been reduced to annual oil changes from the bikes just sitting rather than putting mileage on. I really would like to change that but you got to eat, pay health, car, home insurance premiums, mortgages, buy gas, pay taxes, bike bling, so on and so on............
 
benelli, I use Amsoil sometimes. I've gone back and forth between mobil 1 and Amsoil and cannot tell a difference. Wally world here has stopped selling mobil 1 4T so next change I'll either go back to Amsoil or try the Castrol 4T.
 
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