Speaking of dead batteries, is there any way to start a Rocket 3 when it gets below 40 degree's?
Hi GuzziLarry,
I used to have similar issues with my 2009 standard. The following solved the problem:
1. I use a Scorpion YTX20DHL battery that is made for Harleys but is the same physical size as the OEM. I purchased online from
BatteryStuff.com. Make sure that you get the 'DHL' version. It's an AGM item and it has balls.
2. In their wisdom, Triumph used 8 AWG for the positive and negative battery cables. They are too high resistance to carry the electrical energy to start the bike when the going gets tough, i.e. at low ambient temperatures. The negative cable is the one to change if you only wish to do one, but it does help if you do the positive cable, too. Use 4 AWG (stranded type) which can be purchased (along with the required lugs) from
remybattery.com.
Battery cable SKU (red) - SHT4-RED
Battery cable SKU (black) - SHT4-BLACK
45 degree 1/4" copper lug SKU (for battery end of cables) - 5952DV
Straight 5/16" copper lug SKU (for engine ground and starter motor ends of cables) - 5952E
Rubber terminal boots SKUs - 5719R (red), 5719B (black).
The 45 degree battery terminals can be easily bent to the correct angle to fit if things are a bit tight. You'll also need a propane torch and quite a lot of decent solder (try not to use the lead-free crap).
Routing the cables is no fun if you have fat fingers or a short trip temper.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Mark
EDIT FOR ADDITIONAL INFO:
a. To remove/replace the positive cable at the starter motor the starter motor must be removed. Since this will leave a big hole into the engine's innards, try to clean the area as best as possible before removal. You don't want bits of dirt (or whatever) getting into the engine.
b. The cable to the starter motor connects via a threaded copper lug, which is relatively soft and could be easily stripped. The torque for the nut is 7Nm. Please use a torque wrench.
c. The bolts that hold the starter motor to the engine should be torqued to 28Nm.
d. Tie a piece of STRONG nylon string to one end of a cable before pulling it out. That way you can use it to help pull through the new cable and correctly route it.
e. If you have the carbon canister under the left side cover it is easiest to remove it prior to running the new negative cable. The canister is held on with 3 zip ties.
f. As the 4 AWG cables are less flexible than the 8 AWG OEM items, make the new cables about 2" longer to account for bigger radiuses when going around corners.