Oil type?

[Ugarte]

I agree with Hellfire,s logic about thinner oils.I will be using Rotella T6 synthetic 5w40 in all my motorcycle oil changes from now on.
- Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic
Read the part under maintenance savings

That is what I have been using in both my Rocket and KLR650.

 

[Tekcor]

Nulon 10W-40

I've come across an Australian made oil by Nulon.
It's a full synthetic 10W - 40 meeting or exceeding the following industry standards.
American Petroleum Institute: API SM/CF
European: ACEA A3/B3
Society of Automotive Engineers: SAE 10W-40

Seems to be suitable and it's cheap.

Can't find any mention about friction modifiers.
Has anyone else used this?

I've never been a very good lab rat.

 

[HellFire]

Lab rats have short life spans ... is it worth the savings now?

 

[Tekcor]

Lab rats have short life spans ... is it worth the savings now?

Hey HellFire, I think you've sumed it up in that statment/question.
What was I thinking. I went and bought the Mobil 4T (same as what the Triumph dealer workshops use here in Oz).
I will sleep better at night and I've already forgotten how much extra I paid.

 

[JimmyMac]

DON'T DO IT!!!!!!!!!!

i used the same oil - Nulon synth and it FARKED my clutch plates!

Packed with friction modifiers, it's an auto oil not a bike oil, just don't do it. Cost me 4 grand to fix (including a gear issue).

It's not worth it. Buy the mobil 4T or at the very least make sure you use a 4T oil.

My mistake, went off half cocked - I see you bought the Mobil. Good choice!

Anyone else out there - don't use Auto oils!

 

[hegels]

has anyone ever gotten a uoa to show how the oils are affecting the motors. I run non synthetic in my 77 gl1000 and havent ever had any issues. Mobil one makes many different oils I wonder how the turbo diesel oil I use in my jetta would work. It does not have any friction modifiers (read energy conserving on the back of the bottles) mobil also makes a specific oil for my parents mercedes that is a 0-40 oil. I'll have to take a look at the bottles when i go to schucks later today 0-40 would seem to be ideal then right?

just a thought,
Steve

 

[Pig9r]

Does anyone here use Rotella T synthetic oil 15W40 in thier R3?
The owners manual here says to use mobile 1 10w40.

Engine Oil
Specification
Use a semi or fully synthetic 10W/40 or lSW/SO
motorcycle engine oil which meets specification API SH
(or higher) and JASO MA, such as Mobil 1 Racing 4T​

(fully synthetiC> or MobilExtra 4T (semi synthetic>.

I do not know a lot about oil #s and am wondering what the difference is between the 10 and the 15.
The Rotella T is a lot cheaper than the Mobile 1 and easy to find at Walmart.

Whatever you use make sure it is synthetic and 4T since the tranny shares the same oil as the engine.

 

[HellFire]

Like Pigr said ... that 4T is sooo important to the wet clutch material. You might not have problems in the beginning, but those chemicals permeate the porous friction pads and will eventually cause the material to start slipping. Once it starts to slip, there is no other fix than replacement ... changing the oil won't help at all at that point.

 

[valkraider]

Like Pigr said ... that 4T is sooo important to the wet clutch material. You might not have problems in the beginning, but those chemicals permeate the porous friction pads and will eventually cause the material to start slipping. Once it starts to slip, there is no other fix than replacement ... changing the oil won't help at all at that point.

4T doesn't really have anything to do with the transmission or clutch. It is the designation for 4 stroke engine oil.


2T is or two stroke, 4T is for four stroke.

Almost all on-road motorcycles are 4stroke. So you meet the 4T designation with any brand of oil that is for a four stroke application - whether it specifies the letters "4T" or not.

What kills wet clutches sometimes is friction modifiers.

I your oil is designed for wet clutches and has no friction modifiers, then it is OK for use.

Now the debate has been raging for decades now. I have personally met people with 200,000 miles on gold wings using only basic synthetic car oil. So everyone has an opinion on this matter.

My opinion is that it is not worth the risk to save $20 at oil change. Just get a good motorcycle oil that specifically supports wet clutches and you are better off. It's just not worth it to experiment for a few dollars in savings.

Use Motorcycle specific oil formulated for wet clutch applications and all is good!

--
"Officer, I know I was going faster than 55mph, but I wasn't going to be on the road an hour." -Steven Wright

Posted from my iPhone using the "Tapatalk" app.

 

[T Evans]

I stopped in yesterday at the fairly new Triumph dealer in Tulsa to pick up a new oil filter for the Rock. While I was there I was informed that Triumph is now suggesting Castrol Rs R4 10w50 synthetic. I was going to just purchase the filter then purchase the Mobile 1 synthetic at the parts store until they showed me the chart from Triumph. I went ahead and purchased the Castrol from them because I didn't know if I would be able to find the Castrol at home.
They seem to be hard working and willing to work with a guy. They had a few helmets setting on the shelf that have been there a while and was making some pretty good deals on them. I asked what they would order me a Nolan N43 Triliogy for, retail was 299 and they ordered it for me for 245 plus tax. I could purchase on line for 224 plus freight but I thought I would give them the business.
Seemed like a nice group of people there at this dealership so whenever in Tulsa, you might swing by and give them a shout.

Big T