Oil pump drive gear,

theharleydr

.020 Over
Joined
Dec 24, 2012
Messages
12
Location
MESA AZ
2005 R3. doing the upgrade kit in the trans. Noticed on page 4.11 in the service manual a guide for the oil pump drive chain. I don't have that nor can I find any mention of it. The chain is very slack , ( 18000 miles). Can' find it in any parts lists.
Also my issue of difficult first gear engagement was the actuator fork hitting the shift drum. Had to machine off .020", the 5th gear bush was eating the thrust washer and the actuator ball fell through the trans when the bolt came out. Fun sh..t !
I swear the Hinkley engineers went to school with the HD engineers.
So whats up with the drive chain slack?:?:
 
2005 R3. doing the upgrade kit in the trans. Noticed on page 4.11 in the service manual a guide for the oil pump drive chain. I don't have that nor can I find any mention of it. The chain is very slack , ( 18000 miles). Can' find it in any parts lists.
Also my issue of difficult first gear engagement was the actuator fork hitting the shift drum. Had to machine off .020", the 5th gear bush was eating the thrust washer and the actuator ball fell through the trans when the bolt came out. Fun sh..t !
I swear the Hinkley engineers went to school with the HD engineers.
So whats up with the drive chain slack?:?:

first I have taken two motors apart a 06 and 07 and never seen the guide either in any of them. Now as for the actutaor ball being loose I remember soem of the bikes having it installed wrong from the factory. It seems like they did not apply the locktite to the threads correctly which allowed them to work out (vibrate loose) As for the slack in the chain both mine were thet way and I never had a problem. A real important thing here is to make sure you get the drive pins for the oil pump in the holes in the back of the clutch basket prior to torquing the clutch basket nut down on the input shaft.

Now as the for the fork rubbing the shift drum. I have never seen that which could make for hard shifting. The question I would ask myself is are there any signs of it doing it before I dissasembled it? rub mrks on the drum? were marks on the fork? did I install a new fork? Is something bent or running out of concentricity? Does the shift drum run true? Is the out put shaft rining true? the shaft the shift fork are on is it straight? Just thinking out loud.

Did you run the tranny thru its gears to make sure it shifts properly before closing the case. This can be done and you can watch all the shift events.

Please do not take this wrong they say the Roadster tranny's shift a lot freeer and maybe its because they made soem clearance changes between the drums and forks. I have heard the older bikes shift harder and this could be a reason why. There is not many parts that move the gears so changes had to be made somewhere.
As for the fifth gear bushing are you talking output shaft or input shaft? So I can look at the drawings and my extra tranny shafts.
Hope this helps
 
what a refreshing article its good to see there is at least two practical enthusiasts out there there is always things that can be improved by carefully studying all the parts and possibly modding them to work better I think this is probably one of the reasons some people have had recurrent problems with the rocket the so called technicians out there
after replacing the torsional damper bearing in my 07 classic last year (fitted the wrong way round) i dropped the sump plate last week to check for any schrapnel in the strainers and all was well the bike has now done 11000 miles and the trans seems to get better , had it out for its first ride this year and everything functions without fault , i wouldnt let a dealer near mine
 
evidence marks on the shift drum from the actuator fork. Understand the clutch pins. no sweat there.

Good I have seen some guys put her together and wonder why the have no oil pressure water pump and have a clutch problem from missing this. Sounds like your right on her and will be up in no time.
 
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