Neutral switch actuator

[Paul Bryant]

Such is life, what do ya do

 

[Jag]

Such is life, what do ya do

It's tough to accept, but they are a complex machine with hundreds of moving parts and parts break. I know it sucks, but you either fix, get a newer one and move foward,$hit happens. Good luck!!

 

[TURBO200R4]

No none of that, the switch was reasonable clean, a bit gunky but nothing that would have caused it to jam up at all.
I have been riding the bike regularly.
I think it's down to what Scot has said, the alloy has flogged out.
So the Engine is coming out

hey guy did u read my post # 15. there is no reason to pull the engine when u can fix the problem by modifying the gear sensor switch. and then just engage clutch to start. there is a thread about using a resistor to simulate third so the timing and tables r all the same.

 

[Paul Bryant]

hey guy did u read my post # 15. there is no reason to pull the engine when u can fix the problem by modifying the gear sensor switch. and then just engage clutch to start. there is a thread about using a resistor to simulate third so the timing and tables r all the same.

Quite right Herman, BUT, what concerns me is what if a piece of roll pin drops out and does a lap around the gear box
I can start and ride the bike, I've determined that the mapping is not going to be a problem.
The only issue is that because the neutral light does not come on in "neutral" if I let the clutch out with the side stand down, in neutral, the computer thinks we still have a gear and kills the Engine, no big deal.

 

[TURBO200R4]

personally i would take the gamble and rig a neutral/third switch.
also i know a lot of people that can not stand to have a problem on there bike it would worry them so much they would not enjoy the ride.
u know we will support u any way u decide.

 

[warp9.9]

Quite right Herman, BUT, what concerns me is what if a piece of roll pin drops out and does a lap around the gear box
I can start and ride the bike, I've determined that the mapping is not going to be a problem.
The only issue is that because the neutral light does not come on in "neutral" if I let the clutch out with the side stand down, in neutral, the computer thinks we still have a gear and kills the Engine, no big deal.

From the looks of it, the pin would have to eat thru the shaft or the case to work its way out. I will take another look at the oil pathway but if it dropped out I suspect it will end up in the rear sump screen right below it. I want to check the depth of the hole in the shaft to see if maybe most of the pin could have went in the shaft leaving a stubby to wear off and not engage the shifting drum. I just dont see it snapping off. Could be wrong tho. It wouldn't be the first time.

 

[Paul Bryant]

Thanks Guys, the support is what makes the difference.
I can live with knowing that something is not right, IF I know exactly what is going on and what the potential problems are.
I agree Scot, I don't think a bit has or will break off, if it did it would probably be captivated within the Alloy shaft/selector drum area.

And I am sure I can speak for all of us here Scot, we all really appreciate all the Engines that you have blown up to;
A) have the knowledge of how to build them so that they won't blow up, and;
B) have the bits to show us photos of.

 

[Gerald]

Ok @Paul Bryant let me post this frpm my phone and then I will go down load from the scope and add it to this.
First the drum with the split roll pin in it and the aluminum shaft that passes the gear signal on.

The off center split roll pin hole in the shaft

I

Shaft and spool together

And the shaft route thru the upper case

ok here is a shot with the scope in thru the hole the shaft goes in. in this view you can see the split roll pin hole with no pin in it. that is because when I pulled the aluminum shaft the roll pin stayed in the shaft verses the spool.

Now I can only speculate your problem is here because if it was I the other end of the spool I would think there would be a problem shifting . the other end also has a split roll pin probably for what I would call the selector sprocket. I would have to look up the parts name. Anyway if you pin is some how broke, the hole in the shaft wallowered out perhaps allowing enough movement of the pin so it would come out of the spool could much rotation up a bit. You might be able to pull and replace the shaft without removing the motor like changing the torsional damper but you will not know the extent or scope of repairs until you get that far into it. I recommend checking the front detent area just in case no matter which way you choose to go.

Think there is also a wavy washer not shown in picture.

 

[quadzilla200]

Can someone help me with the same problem. There are other threads out there saying to spray WD40 on the neutral switch. I really hope that works, as this thread looks like a nightmare.
My neutral light doesn't come on, but neutral still works with the kickstand up. I can't find the neutral switch to try the WD40. Is it actually in the casing? If anyone has a pic it would be very helpful. I see pics of that part for sale but I can't find it on the bike. Thank you for any help.

 

[TURBO200R4]

First of all the spray is for the stepper motor or the clutch switch.
I am going to asume what u r calling the nuetral switch is actually the gear position switch. It is located on the left side of motor at the rear of engine. Do not spray with wd40. The two bolts can b removed and the sensor taken off and terminals cleaned. Caution must b used as componets can drop inside of motor. I am on my phone and can not see the year of your bike.
I would search for gear position switch and study up on your year