Neutral switch actuator

[Bedifferent]

I can't speak towards the shaft problem, but one of the first issues I had with my own 2013 was the neutral switch. I wouldn't read neutral even when I was in neutral. Finally it threw a code, took it to the dealer, they removed it cleaned and tested it. I demonstrated the problem at least 3 time with the service manager and mechanic looking on after they did their thing....They acted like Zombies in denial. There response was to tell me they couldn't replace it under warranty because it tested good. It was like I didn't have a problem. Had to call Triumph to get satisfaction. Six weeks later they replaced it. Never had the issue again. Looked good, tested good, still a bad part that needed to be replaced. Others have said it is possible to shift the switch slightly in its mount making a difference getting it to work properly. $0.02...End of story.

 

[warp9.9]

Scot, could you show me a photo of these two bits, the selector drum and this shaft, just so I can picture this in my mind.
I'm seeing this is a "strip the Engine" fix

I'll see about digging the parts out a take s couple pictures tomorrow.

 

[Paul Bryant]

Cool, thanks Scot.

 

[warp9.9]

Cool, thanks Scot.

Ok @Paul Bryant let me post this frpm my phone and then I will go down load from the scope and add it to this.
First the drum with the split roll pin in it and the aluminum shaft that passes the gear signal on.

The off center split roll pin hole in the shaft

I

Shaft and spool together

And the shaft route thru the upper case

ok here is a shot with the scope in thru the hole the shaft goes in. in this view you can see the split roll pin hole with no pin in it. that is because when I pulled the aluminum shaft the roll pin stayed in the shaft verses the spool.

Now I can only speculate your problem is here because if it was I the other end of the spool I would think there would be a problem shifting . the other end also has a split roll pin probably for what I would call the selector sprocket. I would have to look up the parts name. Anyway if you pin is some how broke, the hole in the shaft wallowered out perhaps allowing enough movement of the pin so it would come out of the spool could much rotation up a bit. You might be able to pull and replace the shaft without removing the motor like changing the torsional damper but you will not know the extent or scope of repairs until you get that far into it. I recommend checking the front detent area just in case no matter which way you choose to go.

 

[TURBO200R4]

interesting problem. i would agree with Scot that roll pin probably broke and then the sharp edge which probably does not stick out very much is cutting the aluminum shaft and letting it rotate more than it should. i don't know how much room there is but u might be able to drill and tap shaft then put a bolt so u can pull that shaft. it must come straight back for a ways and i do not know if it is possible and u would still have a piece left in the other shifter mechanism. might use magnet or going through the bottom?
however if it is fairly simple i would fix it wright or u could use resistors to signal third like the gipro (whatever it is called) or u could get fancy and have a switch for neutral and third.

 

[Paul Bryant]

Thanks Scot, I really appreciate the photos, I now know what I am up against.
The gearbox is shifting up and down all gears no problem, so feel that it is purely this roll pin area.
Exactly what needs to be done to fix the problem I won't know until I get the shaft out.
Even if I get the shaft out, where is the roll pin going to be, the shaft being alloy will be the part that is flogged out, if the pin has stayed firmly in the end of the selector drum, then it's just a matter of repairing or replacing that shaft.
I may have to strip the Engine to do the job, will have to wait and see.
I've got heaps of work on at present, so will report back when I get into this.

Thanks for every ones input.

 

[Rocket Scientist]

Pisser Paul ! Had the bike sat for awhile before this happened ? Wondering if water had got into the neutral switch area and caused corrosion on the big end of the aluminum shaft, causing it to bind a little and eventually break the pin or waller out ? Just thinking out loud really. Not a lot of torsional load on that shaft normally.

 

[Paul Bryant]

No none of that, the switch was reasonable clean, a bit gunky but nothing that would have caused it to jam up at all.
I have been riding the bike regularly.
I think it's down to what Scot has said, the alloy has flogged out.
So the Engine is coming out

 

[Rocket Scientist]

No none of that, the switch was reasonable clean, a bit gunky but nothing that would have caused it to jam up at all.
I have been riding the bike regularly.
I think it's down to what Scot has said, the alloy has flogged out.
So the Engine is coming out

 

[kipper]

Engine out for a ****ty roll pin ,that's a bummer .Hope you find a solution that will avoid that. As always great pics from Scott.