Need a drive shaft for 2022 GT

i would say that maybe this is the u joint that you need.
several numbers of the same joint
precision 345, master pro 345 neapco/dana 2-4805
caps 1.066 on the dana 2-4805 with holes in the clip like the triumph.
most of the others are 1.0625=1 1/16 or 1 1/8=1.125
this info from 12 years ago
 
i would say that maybe this is the u joint that you need.
several numbers of the same joint
precision 345, master pro 345 neapco/dana 2-4805
caps 1.066 on the dana 2-4805 with holes in the clip like the triumph.
most of the others are 1.0625=1 1/16 or 1 1/8=1.125
this info from 12 years ago
Thanks for the info..... However, mine is a 2022 and wouldn't think they'd be the same, but maybe
This is a place to start.
I've never rebuilt an U-Joint before, but doesn't look that difficult
 
Thanks for the info..... However, mine is a 2022 and wouldn't think they'd be the same, but maybe
This is a place to start.
I've never rebuilt an U-Joint before, but doesn't look that difficult
It's not difficult, but if you're not sure a driveline shop will source the right joint and replace them for you.
 
Thanks for the info..... However, mine is a 2022 and wouldn't think they'd be the same, but maybe
This is a place to start.
I've never rebuilt an U-Joint before, but doesn't look that difficult

i would recommend a driveshaft place
if you try it yourself then i would suggest that we do a google meet phone call it is actually very complicated to do it correct.
just for starters you take center punch and mark the drive shaft and yokes (or white paint/white out but if you wipe it off) so you get it back together the same way it was when balanced
you take a drift 7/8 to 1 inch (socket and 6 inch extension) and you bang the cap/ring that will free up the clip so it will come out easy.
ect, ect, ect
 
i would recommend a driveshaft place
if you try it yourself then i would suggest that we do a google meet phone call it is actually very complicated to do it correct.
just for starters you take center punch and mark the drive shaft and yokes (or white paint/white out but if you wipe it off) so you get it back together the same way it was when balanced
you take a drift 7/8 to 1 inch (socket and 6 inch extension) and you bang the cap/ring that will free up the clip so it will come out easy.
ect, ect, ect
Hmm......glad you pointed that out before tackling. I'll take it to a shop
 
I think that you said that the driveshaft had a set whitch don't mean a thing to me
now if you mean a stift spot then one of things that you do to finished the shaft is to knock the caps out against the clips.
you do this with a hammer and tap the yoke so it drives the caps against the clips.
some ujoints can be to tight and it will bind the joint then you can knock them out a little and use a 5 or 3 inch blade and and grind it down a little if it is over .010 then i take a little off the other side.
if it is just tight you might try to knock the caps out against the clips.
hth
 
What does 'set' mean? When I removed the drive shaft to re-lube the drive splines, I discovered the bevel box end u-joint
did not operate smoothy in both axis. One axis was fine when holding shaft horizontally with spline in line with shaft and
then letting go of the spline. The spline rotated down smoothly and completely.
However, if I rotate the drive shaft 90 deg and do the same thing on other axis, the spline wouldn't fall downward smoothly or completely.
It would stay (set) in the same in-line position with drive shaft. It wouldn't drop down unless pushing (very little) on it. If I flopped it up and down, it wanted to return to the in-line position.
Hope that explains what I mean by 'set'.
The bike has 27K miles on it and surprised it's doing that with that low a mileage. There's no apparent damage when looking at it.
See pic of bevel box end u-joint. I have very little experience with u-joints, but this does not seem correct.
 

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