Sorry for your troubles, been enjoying your pics
I think he bought it from RMstator in Colorado.
Let me know ASAP if anyone has heard negative things about them as their site looked OK.
I personally would not endorse RM Stator - see here
This is a HUGE undertaking to take that risk - they may have fixed that epoxy issue, but would not take that chance, especially on a Rocket motor given all that is entailed in replacement
If your stator is really* gone, then get a Ricks one, which is proven entity on the R3
* On that note - be 100% certain the stator really is gone; I know nothing about the shop in question so don't want to make any specific comments about their capabilities one way or the other; simply that as a
generalization, most even really good shops who do excellent mechanical work, can often fall down on this basic electrical diagnosis.
They may well be right and I tip my hat if they are.
But before undertaking that, be 100% sure the stator is really goosed.
Here is the extremely simple acid test, which you can either do yourself or ask them to do:
Set meter to resistance
Disconnect Stator from R/R
Put Black Probe on Engine Ground
Put Red Probe in to any ONE** terminal (it is difficult to get a probe to read into the terminal - you may need a piece of wire or paper clip)
Read resistance:
If you get 'short' (zero ohms or close to zero ohms) then stator is indeed fried.
If it is NOT short, your stator is good
** Super important - you are not reading between pins - you MUST read from any single pin to engine ground
It does not matter which pin - ALL will read the same, whether that be good or bad
I guarantee you that if it PASSES that test (i.e. does NOT exhibit short from any pin to engine ground) your stator is good.
Stator fails on Rockets are not super-common, but
DO happen (point in case
@Kevin frazier) - but would be
more likely the R/R