My Moto Hobo life

8 hours is probably about right Jim, remind him of temp sensor in block and also the tightning sequence of the motor. And he can indeed pivot the bike without removing the engine saving some time. I hope he ordered you a stator from Ricks electric,
 
I can next day you the tools and will send you pictures from book on sequence @DEcosse probaly knows of rmstator in co. But recommends ricks, let me know if i can help
Cool, thanks.
I’ll get the shop address in the morning.
ETA for stator is 10/16 so no rush at this point.
He ordered the gasket from Phoenix Triumph already.
My Michelin DS front tire has over 12K on it and it is starting to cup on the right side so I may as well replace it while the wheel is off.
I was hoping to get 15,000 out of it but considering the extra weight of the trailer 12 is fine and better than I’ve ever gotten with more expensive Metzelers or Avon’s.
 
jim did he tell you how he checked the stator or how he was so certain, not doubting the diagnosis just curious what he said.
 
Is this it?


19BA3525-F37E-4A0E-8F6E-727326F85287.png
 
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Sorry for your troubles, been enjoying your pics
I think he bought it from RMstator in Colorado.
Let me know ASAP if anyone has heard negative things about them as their site looked OK.

I personally would not endorse RM Stator - see here




This is a HUGE undertaking to take that risk - they may have fixed that epoxy issue, but would not take that chance, especially on a Rocket motor given all that is entailed in replacement
If your stator is really* gone, then get a Ricks one, which is proven entity on the R3

* On that note - be 100% certain the stator really is gone; I know nothing about the shop in question so don't want to make any specific comments about their capabilities one way or the other; simply that as a generalization, most even really good shops who do excellent mechanical work, can often fall down on this basic electrical diagnosis.
They may well be right and I tip my hat if they are.
But before undertaking that, be 100% sure the stator is really goosed.

Here is the extremely simple acid test, which you can either do yourself or ask them to do:
Set meter to resistance
Disconnect Stator from R/R
Put Black Probe on Engine Ground
Put Red Probe in to any ONE** terminal (it is difficult to get a probe to read into the terminal - you may need a piece of wire or paper clip)
Read resistance:
If you get 'short' (zero ohms or close to zero ohms) then stator is indeed fried.
If it is NOT short, your stator is good

** Super important - you are not reading between pins - you MUST read from any single pin to engine ground
It does not matter which pin - ALL will read the same, whether that be good or bad

I guarantee you that if it PASSES that test (i.e. does NOT exhibit short from any pin to engine ground) your stator is good.

Stator fails on Rockets are not super-common, but DO happen (point in case @Kevin frazier) - but would be more likely the R/R
 
He ordered an aftermarket one for $140 ($180 to me)
I can get 2- day shipping from Ricks for $50 but the shop would hit me for $325 vs $180.
You're saying that they are going to mark up these after-market parts (regardless of which one) on top of the installation cost?
that's just ..... wow!!!!!! :eek:
 
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The stock r/r probably no biggie as alot of us that have done theshendigan uprade have the oem r/r laying around, but for them to tell you they tested the r/r and it was good with no other comments then to say ( its sounds like assume) then the stator is bad, they should be able to tell you decosses testing procedure or they could be guessing as that is how you test the stator, if i was close id come get you and the bike. Sorry brother
 
You can't really bench test a MOSFET regulator like you can old-school SCR one
Sounds like they decided, "it's not the regulator, must be the stator"
Now - important to note - it may well BE the stator, but I would sure like to have some specific testing to know.
 
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