Mounting an Exedra Max rear tire on the new 3R = Better Handling

[CvSisinthehouse]

This is a DIY install of the Exedra Max on the new 3R. It requires minor modifications to the forward most rear fender and, if doing it yourself, a tire stand and Mojo Lever - I'd say about a two beer rating for time/difficulty.

The result, in my opinion, is a less expensive tire that provides better performance, handling, and wear.

The Exedra Max has proven to be a very good tire on my ’11 Roadster. The Exedra goes for $200, as opposed to $312 (WTF?) for the Cobra Chrome at Rocky Mountain ATV. With an average of three tire changes/year this is a significant difference.

What you can expect: The Exedra is 1” taller, so you have to raise the fender on the front of the swing arm up an extra 1/2.”
* A couple of 1/2" spacers and a short piece of metal (thanks @Tal for the tip) was all that was needed to make the switch. So, the bike sits taller, but for me, with only a 30” inseam, it seems like it’s a couple of inches taller. This will provide you with more clearance (fewer peg drags) and, because the rake is changed, quicker handling that you’ll especially notice on the twisties.

*Edit- I was getting some whistling so I raised the fender up another 1/2" and it went away. So, raise the fender 1"

About the mounting....
Just 5 bolts and the wheel is off!

I use Motion Pro irons to break the beads- easy.

I've been using the Mojo Level on the Roadster and it works great on the 3R too. I balance using Marc Parnes' setup, but the 3R has a large hub opening and I need to see about getting some kind of adapter. This time I used Dyna Beads, but I really prefer the traditional method.

Speaking of wheel weights- there were a boat load of them on there from the factory to balance out the Cobra Chrome. I've never had to use that many weights.

The Cobras wore more on one side and this is what I had left at 3,150 miles....

The front also needs replacing and is cupping (my usual experience with Avons). It'll get changed before meeting up in Maggie Valley next weekend. I usually get about 4,000 from a tire on the Roadster, so I'm not sure if it's just the Chromes, or if the new bike is even more hungry for tires - I guess I'll know in the next 3-4K.

Is the new tire a 55 aspect? or 50? I bought a 55 but havent mounted it yet.

 

[jlagrave]

Is the new tire a 55 aspect? or 50? I bought a 55 but havent mounted it yet.

The Bridgestone Exedra Max is a 240/55R16

 

[zenbiker]

This is a DIY install of the Exedra Max on the new 3R. It requires minor modifications to the forward most rear fender and, if doing it yourself, a tire stand and Mojo Lever - I'd say about a two beer rating for time/difficulty.

The result, in my opinion, is a less expensive tire that provides better performance, handling, and wear.

The Exedra Max has proven to be a very good tire on my ’11 Roadster. The Exedra goes for $200, as opposed to $312 (WTF?) for the Cobra Chrome at Rocky Mountain ATV. With an average of three tire changes/year this is a significant difference.

What you can expect: The Exedra is 1” taller, so you have to raise the fender on the front of the swing arm up an extra 1/2.”
* A couple of 1/2" spacers and a short piece of metal (thanks @Tal for the tip) was all that was needed to make the switch. So, the bike sits taller, but for me, with only a 30” inseam, it seems like it’s a couple of inches taller. This will provide you with more clearance (fewer peg drags) and, because the rake is changed, quicker handling that you’ll especially notice on the twisties.

*Edit- I was getting some whistling so I raised the fender up another 1/2" and it went away. So, raise the fender 1"

About the mounting....
Just 5 bolts and the wheel is off!

I use Motion Pro irons to break the beads- easy.

I've been using the Mojo Level on the Roadster and it works great on the 3R too. I balance using Marc Parnes' setup, but the 3R has a large hub opening and I need to see about getting some kind of adapter. This time I used Dyna Beads, but I really prefer the traditional method.

Speaking of wheel weights- there were a boat load of them on there from the factory to balance out the Cobra Chrome. I've never had to use that many weights.

The Cobras wore more on one side and this is what I had left at 3,150 miles....

The front also needs replacing and is cupping (my usual experience with Avons). It'll get changed before meeting up in Maggie Valley next weekend. I usually get about 4,000 from a tire on the Roadster, so I'm not sure if it's just the Chromes, or if the new bike is even more hungry for tires - I guess I'll know in the next 3-4K.

Better you than me!!

 

[jlagrave]

Finally got out for a ride this weekend with the new tire and finally got the suspension dialed in. Feels like a new bike. The turn in IS better. Very happy so far.

 

[Dr.D]

I asked my shop about getting the Avons and the can not get them at this time. I still have some rubber on the current tires when they wear out I might need to try the Exedra Max. I’m not fully understanding the photos and the necessary modifications. I’ll report back if I try the EM.

 

[Journeyman]

I asked my shop about getting the Avons and the can not get them at this time. I still have some rubber on the current tires when they wear out I might need to try the Exedra Max. I’m not fully understanding the photos and the necessary modifications. I’ll report back if I try the EM.

Mel, the front rear fender (next to exhaust) just needs to go up 1". It attaches at three places. On the left side of the bike you just need 1" spacers and longer SS bolts for the two attachment points. On the right side look inside the fender where it attaches at the bottom. You just need a 2" piece of metal with two holes drilled so that you can attach the new bracket to the attachment point and the fender 1" higher up on the new bracket. That's it, really.

 

[CvSisinthehouse]

I'll be putting my stock Avons on Ebay in the next week or 2. I dont like that brand, had some issues in the past with them. They have 2,500 miles on them but they are Delaware miles.

 

[Tal]

Mel, the front rear fender (next to exhaust) just needs to go up 1". It attaches at three places. On the left side of the bike you just need 1" spacers and longer SS bolts for the two attachment points. On the right side look inside the fender where it attaches at the bottom. You just need a 2" piece of metal with two holes drilled so that you can attach the new bracket to the attachment point and the fender 1" higher up on the new bracket. That's it, really.

Too easy.......

 

[Journeyman]

Too easy.......

And, you were the one who showed me how....

I'll be putting my stock Avons on Ebay in the next week or 2. I dont like that brand, had some issues in the past with them. They have 2,500 miles on them but they are Delaware miles.

Not a fan of Avons either. I predict that you'll make a killing. The 2.5 owners are very resistant to going off the stock setup, except for exhaust.

I'd list them here on classified to avoid the eBay fees. Bet they get snatched up quickly.

 

[Dr.D]

Mel, the front rear fender (next to exhaust) just needs to go up 1". It attaches at three places. On the left side of the bike you just need 1" spacers and longer SS bolts for the two attachment points. On the right side look inside the fender where it attaches at the bottom. You just need a 2" piece of metal with two holes drilled so that you can attach the new bracket to the attachment point and the fender 1" higher up on the new bracket. That's it, really.

Thanks again I might just be a bit intimidated. As far as easy or to easy as Tal states, you should know I think cutting teeth broken off to the gums very easy. It takes me 60 seconds and I charge $200.

If you ever need this service come on over and we’ll trade efforts.