Lower Timing Chain Blew-up!!!!!!!

Wilbur:

Without pulling your whole post in a quote I know you are a wrench spinner and I know that you know that if the valves are too tight the engine runs piss poor and in short order errodes the seats. Sounds like you have your hands full. let us know if the noise changes any.

Her3tic

Thanks for that Info..Need to learn every thing I can before I take It apart. Jack

av8r4fun said:

Roger that, Pig9r. New.

Click to expand...

I'd like you to ask the wrench at Baxters if the engine is wet linered or dry linered and if it has crevice seals or not. Please? Oh, Jack and I need the torque value for the front bottom timing sprocket and whether it's a dry or wet value and whether it's a progressive torque or not.

Flip

Looks like the liners go In with just silicone sealer. The crevice seal Is made with the sealer..BJC

Torque

Well If you have a manual could you just look for me to verify Its not there. Your all gona need It when yours comes apart....Jack

I can't seem to find any written word about it either Jack, just the page that shows it as you've stated. I'd guess 75 nm +/- 25 nm would do it , right?

Hope you get a "real" response from someone. Who was it that did a complete teardown cause of the clutch lever issue???

Search me.

Good question Jack; and, I don't have an answer. 28nm = 20.7 pounds feet, though you knew that already. That seems light. You'd think nearly 30 wouldn't you?

I got my Tourer back today. That fargin keyway that you're lookin to tighten up against was in my opinion the root of all my beer can rattle. Mind you, with mine, it didn't really get to amplifying till after Viking73 and I did our 250 run. I'd not had a strong ride against anyone prior; though I wager for Viking it was just a breeze The metal in the keyway was not up to the task Now had I ridden in the Flipmeister Manner I'd have no major basis upon to rest. The HER3TIK beast has most always had the rattle but after that RIDE it became THE BEER CAN RATTLE. And, I'm not ruling out high speed down-shifting as a degrading parameter The keyway was/is crap. Who knows who was the next lower bidder. You need some tungsten.

Jack

I'm sitting here with the shop manual on the table and I can't find it either. It clearly shows a nut but no torque value and it's not stated anywhere in the text either.

One thing I see and I answered my own question is that it's a wet linered engine. the lower skirts of the liners extend into the block skirt but the upper sections (where the heat is) are completely surrounded by coolant which brings me to a point and that is I believe I'll add a bottle of DCA4 to the coolant. As hot as this engine runs, liner cavitation isn't out of the question.

Now that I've come to that realization I find it hard to believe that Triumph don't specify a silicate stabilized potassium permagnate additive antifreeze.

That's why Rocky's water wetter works so well. Any increase in the efficiency of the coolant's ability to transfer heat from the liner to the coolant equates in lower operating temperatures so long as the radiator is efficient enough to dissipate the residual heat which it seems to be (as Rocky alluded to). DCA4 will give almost the same result and is completely compatible with any ethylene glycol or propylene glycol based antifreeze. There are even pre-packaged extended life coolants on the market now that have DCA4 in them. DCA4 is Cummins Engine Company proprietary name for a potassium permagnate deionized water additive.

I'd think a hell of a lot more than 30 Rusty. More like 85 or 90 foot pounds maybe even 100. Hell, the little wenie capscrews on the fork protectors are 27Nm.

Rocky is saying the keyway is bad, or soft but it's not the keyway. The keyway is the milled slot in the crankshaft and the sprocket is broached. The key itself must be the culprit but most keystock is mild steel and not heat treated in any way. I thinking that what the problem is, is that the key stock is a sloppy fit in the milled/broached rectangular slot the two (crankshaft and sprocket) parts make. Normally, the key is a slip fit in the rectangular opening between the two parts with the fixing nut applying the holding torque.

That's probably hard to visualize and I'll have to consult my Machinery's Handbook for the exact fit. I've seen keys that fit tightl;y and others that fit loosely but the deciding factor is the clamping force the fixing/clamping nut applies to the assembly.

I'll pull some techinical data tomorow and post it.

I've been listening carefully for this and am lucky so far (quick... knock on some wood!) Mine is a July '04 with 27000 miles so far, but have not heard the cam chain rattle yet.