Lights Out No Start

The dreaded battery issue shows its ugly head again. A simple fix, but it always seem to be overlooked as the first thing to check.

My headlights are now tied to my Amplink through Eastern Beaver relay system. I have them set for a 10 second delay before coming on and 10 second delay before shutting off.
 
... . When the battery got low it caused a fuse in the wiring to the starter relay to blow which caused the headlights to go out and the no start issue. The fuse was not in the fuse box. ....

Well that's a load of nonsense - defies all known electrical theory - if voltage is lower, then current into whatever load is presented is also lower.
So Fuse blowing because of low voltage is absolute rubbish
Yes it is logical that the starter would not run because the headlight fuse was blown - question is why did it blow and it was NOT because of low voltage :D
The battery not being optimal is incidental - honestly doubt if it was related at all and possibly still serviceable (but without any first hand observation I won't argue that point)

Don't understand the last point - fuse was not in the fuse box???
 
Well that's a load of nonsense - defies all known electrical theory - if voltage is lower, then current into whatever load is presented is also lower.
So Fuse blowing because of low voltage is absolute rubbish
Yes it is logical that the starter would not run because the headlight fuse was blown - question is why did it blow and it was NOT because of low voltage :D
The battery not being optimal is incidental - honestly doubt if it was related at all and possibly still serviceable (but without any first hand observation I won't argue that point)

Don't understand the last point - fuse was not in the fuse box???
Have to agree with you mate! These dealerships try the most ridiculous bull crap to explain an issue they hope they have sorted. I think there may be a few more posts about the issue to still come!
 
I rode my 2015 R3T to work last week. When I arrived home on Friday I noticed my fog lights and head light were out(bike was still running). Just the small bulb at the bottom of the head light was on. After I turned the bike off with the key it would not crank. I only have a click when I push the start button. The fuel pump comes on and the lights around the speedometer come on but no headlight and only a click when start button is pushed. I have checked the fuses, had the battery checked and charged and tried jumping with a car battery. No change. I've searched and not found an answer. What else can I check before I take to the dealer?
I believe headlights are activated through the starter relay, that is the reason the bike don't start when headlights are not functioning; Good luck and "Be Safe!
 
Well that's a load of nonsense - defies all known electrical theory - if voltage is lower, then current into whatever load is presented is also lower.
So Fuse blowing because of low voltage is absolute rubbish
Yes it is logical that the starter would not run because the headlight fuse was blown - question is why did it blow and it was NOT because of low voltage :D
The battery not being optimal is incidental - honestly doubt if it was related at all and possibly still serviceable (but without any first hand observation I won't argue that point)

Don't understand the last point - fuse was not in the fuse box???
Totally agree with that.

Rick
 
Well that's a load of nonsense - defies all known electrical theory - if voltage is lower, then current into whatever load is presented is also lower.
So Fuse blowing because of low voltage is absolute rubbish
Yes it is logical that the starter would not run because the headlight fuse was blown - question is why did it blow and it was NOT because of low voltage :D
The battery not being optimal is incidental - honestly doubt if it was related at all and possibly still serviceable (but without any first hand observation I won't argue that point)

Don't understand the last point - fuse was not in the fuse box???

On the Honda VTX 1800, it's been seen when the battery gets low the starter relay contacts can fuse together and the starter sticks on. Assuming that's from high current? I agree with what you're saying but wanted to throw another data point out there. Could the starting current shoot up when the voltage isn't great enough to kick the starter motor over?
 
Most DC motors are dead shorts when not spinning. Spinning actaully generates a reverse voltage which limits current. Matter of fact, the current a healthy motor consumes is an indicator of torque output

What this means is low voltage cannot produce starting torque required to spin motor at speed, resulting in excess current due to lack of generated voltage.

The excess current would only be in path from battery, motor, ground. Other battery fed circuits would probably experience low voltage
 
Ohms law - I = V/R
R (the load) cannot change
=> as V decreases, I decreases.

In your starter relay case, by the definition above, it cannot be because of increased current (or even decreased current)
it is more likely fusing because the relay is not completely throwing quickly (because of the operating voltage across the coil) and efficiently making a solid contact and it chatters (probably indeterminate to ear or with a DVM unless you have scope on it) and subsequently arcing between the contacts.
 
...The excess current would only be in path from battery, motor, ground. Other battery fed circuits would probably experience low voltage

Exactly - i.e. it cannot cause the headlight fuse to blow! :D
 
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