Jardine Exhaust Baffle Rattle fix?

Buck Mossie

Man of the People
Joined
Dec 19, 2013
Messages
228
Location
City of Angels
Ride
2007 Carpenterized Classic
The left pipe on the Jardine exhaust for my 2011 R3R has started to rattle. It started a few weeks ago and is getting worse. I believe the baffles have come loose inside, or something else has broken in there... Any thoughts on a fix?

I would take them back to Jardine, as they were local, but they are no more ;-(

S/F

B
 
u should be able to kick lightly or tap with rubber hammer to confirm which baffle came loose.
 
What baffle? My stock Jardine mufflers have a cylindrical insert than goes up most of the muffler and is held in place by a rivet at the back of the MC. Do you have an additional baffle inserted in this?
 
Stick a rod up the muffler. If the baffle is loose inside, you should be able to move it and tap the wall of the muffler. You can fix it with a sheet metal screw which is basically what you'd do if you installed an aftermarket baffle like Big City Thunder.
 
OK, so I rode over to a friends shop and worked on this. On the bottom rear of the Jardine Roadster exhaust there are two pop rivets that hold the internal baffle in place. This baffle is wrapped in a high temp fiberglass mesh at the factory. The rivets on the left one were loose and I could move them with my fingers. I drilled both rivet heads off the left baffle, drove the rivets out with a small punch, and the metal baffle slid right out. the fiberglass mesh was 90% gone and the metal baffle was vibrating against the pipe wall, that is what was causing the rattle noise. I purchased a generic motorcycle exhaust repack kit, re-wrapped and wire tied the baffle with new high temp fiberglass mesh, and re-riveted it back in place with new pop rivets. The exhaust repack kit had new fiberglass mesh for both sides, so even though the right side was not lose and rattling, I drilled the rivets and removed that baffle too. It was really stuck in there, however when removed, the glass on the right side exhaust was in worse shape than the one on the left.

Once both sides were re-wrapped and wire tied, and it was all riveted back together, I could really tell a difference in the sound of the exhaust, and although it did not run poorly before, the bike seemed to run better with the repacked exhaust. Perhaps the blown out exhaust baffle wrapping lessened the back pressure, but either way the rattle is gone, the bike is running strong, and I am very happy with the result.

S/F

B
 
OK, so I rode over to a friends shop and worked on this. On the bottom rear of the Jardine Roadster exhaust there are two pop rivets that hold the internal baffle in place. This baffle is wrapped in a high temp fiberglass mesh at the factory. The rivets on the left one were loose and I could move them with my fingers. I drilled both rivet heads off the left baffle, drove the rivets out with a small punch, and the metal baffle slid right out. the fiberglass mesh was 90% gone and the metal baffle was vibrating against the pipe wall, that is what was causing the rattle noise. I purchased a generic motorcycle exhaust repack kit, re-wrapped and wire tied the baffle with new high temp fiberglass mesh, and re-riveted it back in place with new pop rivets. The exhaust repack kit had new fiberglass mesh for both sides, so even though the right side was not lose and rattling, I drilled the rivets and removed that baffle too. It was really stuck in there, however when removed, the glass on the right side exhaust was in worse shape than the one on the left.

Once both sides were re-wrapped and wire tied, and it was all riveted back together, I could really tell a difference in the sound of the exhaust, and although it did not run poorly before, the bike seemed to run better with the repacked exhaust. Perhaps the blown out exhaust baffle wrapping lessened the back pressure, but either way the rattle is gone, the bike is running strong, and I am very happy with the result.

S/F

B
You could also use sheet metal screws to replace the rivets and that makes it easy to repack in the future
 
You could also use sheet metal screws to replace the rivets and that makes it easy to repack in the future

Thats a good thought, ill do that the next time I need to do this, my clock reads a little over 30k miles, and the exhaust has been on there since it was new, and idea at what millage +/- these need to be repacked?

S/F

B
 
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