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Nitrous
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- Dec 31, 2006
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Here's a few tips on installing the CF rims from Blackstone Tek...
First off, mount the tires on the rims before swapping rotors or drive gear. The tire gives you much greater leverage to torque the bolts. My MC shop used a Snap-On tire machine, which handled the CF rims easily. The clamping jaws were taped to prevent scratches to the clear coat, and the rotating "foot" was not allowed to ride on the CF rim. Watch the amount of clamping force used with the wheel jaws... you can actually "flex" the front rim if applying more clamping force than needed. Other than these precautions, my MC shop found the mounting and balancing quite straightforward and normal.
Unbolt the brake rotors from the stock front rim, and attach to the CF front rim using Locktite and torque specs found in R3 Manual. Install and check the new lightness of your steering.
The rear is a bit more work, as the new cush drive and stock drive gear must be installed. First break loose the nuts holding the stock drive gear on the stock rear wheel. I used an impact wrench, but if you don't own one a breaker bar and socket will do the job (might have to tap bar with mallet though). Remove the cir-clip holding the stock cush drive in the wheel, and the entire assembly (drive gear and cush drive) will be removable. Separate the drive gear from the old cush drive and your parts will look like this:
It's easier to install the new cush drive in the CF rim BEFORE you attach the drive gear. The rubbers pop right in with a bit of WD40 and some taps with a RUBBER mallet. Be ****ed certain that you now remove the old "O" ring from the stock wheel and install on the new cush drive as shown below:
Now bolt the drive gear to the cush drive, using the old nuts and locktite. Install cir-clip securely. Install the rear brake rotor. All torque specs are in R3 manual. The rear wheel is now ready for the bike, using the new rear spacer.
First off, mount the tires on the rims before swapping rotors or drive gear. The tire gives you much greater leverage to torque the bolts. My MC shop used a Snap-On tire machine, which handled the CF rims easily. The clamping jaws were taped to prevent scratches to the clear coat, and the rotating "foot" was not allowed to ride on the CF rim. Watch the amount of clamping force used with the wheel jaws... you can actually "flex" the front rim if applying more clamping force than needed. Other than these precautions, my MC shop found the mounting and balancing quite straightforward and normal.
Unbolt the brake rotors from the stock front rim, and attach to the CF front rim using Locktite and torque specs found in R3 Manual. Install and check the new lightness of your steering.
The rear is a bit more work, as the new cush drive and stock drive gear must be installed. First break loose the nuts holding the stock drive gear on the stock rear wheel. I used an impact wrench, but if you don't own one a breaker bar and socket will do the job (might have to tap bar with mallet though). Remove the cir-clip holding the stock cush drive in the wheel, and the entire assembly (drive gear and cush drive) will be removable. Separate the drive gear from the old cush drive and your parts will look like this:
It's easier to install the new cush drive in the CF rim BEFORE you attach the drive gear. The rubbers pop right in with a bit of WD40 and some taps with a RUBBER mallet. Be ****ed certain that you now remove the old "O" ring from the stock wheel and install on the new cush drive as shown below:
Now bolt the drive gear to the cush drive, using the old nuts and locktite. Install cir-clip securely. Install the rear brake rotor. All torque specs are in R3 manual. The rear wheel is now ready for the bike, using the new rear spacer.
