I'm fed up now!

[Big Marty]

I reckon we keep TheMadScientist and get rid of DesertTony ...all in favour say aye good onya for offering your knowledge, advice and assistance. Welcome from Australia.

I'm with you tomcat, the mad scientist has to stay, his knowledge and research into electrical problems will be sought after often.

Oh ye welcome mate from down under

 

[Big Marty]

TheMad Scientist is right (Mostly), You cant bridge the solenoid cos you cant get to it! and none of the cabling is exposed (Not loke a car on other bikes).
On my previous post in particular the last photo you can see a BLACK wire and opposite a BLUE/WHITE green wire, with the clutch in as previously discussed BRIDGE these two wires with a piece of wire around the same thickness or if your carefull with some pointy nose pliers. Starter should engage.

Looks like we got 2 good sparkies to rely on for help well done gentlemen.

 

[Mittzy]

Looks like we got 2 good sparkies to rely on for help well done gentlemen.

I wouldnt say a good sparky, just worked with 12volt alot (I did car audio installation and design for many years) but now I am free from that

 

[RockyIII]

Just read all your recent posts about this stuff and I have to say that you are all a credit to this forum. And you must all stay and share your knowledge, because I for one am very grateful that you have and I don't know where I'd be without you guys.

I must say tho that I'm not very good with the electrical stuff, soldering etc. and the way my bike has been bastardized, sorry, i mean, modified, I have to remove the whole rear section (tank hinge) back, just to access the battery. Tho I can get to the + side from the right side cover.

I will however have a look at the starter button contacts and 1st try the bridge with the nose pliers. If the nose pliers test works, could I just leave a piece of wire hooked up permanently? I see TheMadScientist said to remove after start up.

Excellent stuff, good on ya!!

 

[RockyIII]

just some extra info if it helps shed some light on the situation.

Just went to start her up and to my amazement, she started first press of the button, OMG.

So then I let idle for about 1 minute and turned off. Then as a quick test, went to start up again, but nothing, nothing, nothing! for the life of me, I couldn't get the engine to crank, in neutral, in first (without rocking the bike) nothing. Pressed the button a million times.

As a further note, when I first picked the bike up bike in Feb I used to have to hit under the starter where the rod or whatever engages to get it to engage. I used the handle of a screwdriver to do this (2 person job). That's why i suspect not enough power going to the starter.

i hope all this makes sense, and doesn't sound like some crazy isolated case.

 

[ponters]

Hello all I am new to the forum. I have been researching the Rocket. It will be definitely be my next bike. After reading about Rockey's dilemma, I have decided to register.
I hope this wasn't to much info. Just trying to be helpful. Don't let this get you down

Best of luck!

youre a gentleman TMS. welcome from Melb, Aus

 

[RockyIII]

Couldn't agree more with Ponters, you are indeed. Welcome!

 

[TheMadScientist]

Thanks for the warm welcome Rocketeers! Rocky if you push the start button and starter relay does not "click" it may be the start button as warp9 mentioned previously. There are 2 ways to test this with a meter. First using the OHM (resistance setting). If you can locate the starter button plug (headlight assembly maybe?) just trace cable. Disconnect the plug and put one meter lead on each terminal and push the starter button. You should get a reading of less than 1 ohm or my show up as 0 ohms. If your meter has a diode test it will beep when there is continuity. If the reading is high then the switch is dirty or going bad.

The second way to test the switch is to disassemble the starter switch and use your voltage setting on your meter. With the bike on and ready to start put your black lead from meter on a ground point, maybe unpainted part of frame or motor. Put the red lead on either side of switch until you see the 12-13 volts of your battery. This is your hot side. You want to test the other side if switch. There should be no voltage on this load side until you press the button. The readings should be the same. If the voltage is less on this side of switch then the switch is dirty or bad and needs to be repaired.

If there is no voltage at the switch itself then the problem is up stream toward the battery.

If there is voltage consistently on load side of switch and bike does not Start then the problem lies down stream toward starter relay or starter.

This should give you a place to start.

Best of luck to you

 

[warp9.9]

All that testing is most likely right but I garantee you can pull the switch and clean it before you find where is plugs into. Its simple two screws on the cover and one holding the switch in the cover. The switch is the most basic two steel pads and one spring no fancy cover nothing to keep it dry or out of the weather.

 

[scot in exile]

Thanks for the warm welcome Rocketeers! Rocky if you push the start button and starter relay does not "click" it may be the start button as warp9 mentioned previously. There are 2 ways to test this with a meter. First using the OHM (resistance setting). If you can locate the starter button plug (headlight assembly maybe?) just trace cable. Disconnect the plug and put one meter lead on each terminal and push the starter button. You should get a reading of less than 1 ohm or my show up as 0 ohms. If your meter has a diode test it will beep when there is continuity. If the reading is high then the switch is dirty or going bad.

The second way to test the switch is to disassemble the starter switch and use your voltage setting on your meter. With the bike on and ready to start put your black lead from meter on a ground point, maybe unpainted part of frame or motor. Put the red lead on either side of switch until you see the 12-13 volts of your battery. This is your hot side. You want to test the other side if switch. There should be no voltage on this load side until you press the button. The readings should be the same. If the voltage is less on this side of switch then the switch is dirty or bad and needs to be repaired.

If there is no voltage at the switch itself then the problem is up stream toward the battery.

If there is voltage consistently on load side of switch and bike does not Start then the problem lies down stream toward starter relay or starter.

This should give you a place to start.

Best of luck to you

Where in North Florida are you? it looks like you have a brain which I do not so I might need you sometime