Ignition Switch R&R

[ndgns1]

Looks like my ignition switch is getting pretty worn out/loose.

I go to turn the bike on.. nothing, no gauge lights or headlights,

off... then on again with a little wiggling... lights and gauges will kinda kick off and on...

wiggle one or two more times.. and im good to go..

Looks easy enough to swap out... until I remembered, they probably don't make it all that easy to keep it theft proof.

I will prob be looking at about 300 bucks labor to have triumph do it.. they said maybe a good 3-4 hours worth of work plus a little over 100 bucks for the switch..

Im doubting not many have had this problem yet.. if anyone has any input on this though, it would be appreciated..

Im thinking of doing it myself...

 

[biker1059]

The switch is not hard to remove. I've relocated mine to the side. The tamper proof bolts took about 20 minutes to remove. Take a dremel and cut a slot in the bolts and use a screwdriver to remove. Someone may have a better idea.

 

[Bluemarlin]

I had my front end apart recently to take care of corrosion and couldn't figure how to remove those screws. You make it sound simple, did you have prior knowledge or just a good head for mechanical engineering?
Anyway I just left it together.

ndgns1 after I put the front parts back on I had a similar problem with guages and thought it might be from my handling of the ignition switch. It turned out that what was loose was the connectors in the guages. They had not been undone but somehow had loosened enough to cause the fault. I simply unpluged them and reconnected them and no problem since. 8)

 

[biker1059]

Here is a link discussing it, there are more, do a search

http://www.r3owners.com/viewtopic.php?t ... ion+switch

 

[tdragger]

Follow the recommendations above. It comes out surprisingly easy. Took me about 20 min with just a flat head screwdriver and a hammer. Cut a small groove across the top of the bolt with the screwdriver and then turn it out. Just make sure you cut the correct bolts. There's another set of tamper proof bolts nearby that hold the ignition switch itself together. Wasted a few minutes on them.

 

[gR3yWolf]

Now would be the perfect time for the ignition relocation kit...I love it!

 

[ndgns1]

No warrany left the bike is a 2005 but was sold to the first owner back in april of 2004.

biker1059: thanks for the link I will look into that, I don't know whats up with the search on the forum but I tried ignition, switch, starter.. and that topic didn't come up at all.

what type of head is on a tamper proof bolt? is there a special tool that would be needed to remove these?

Bluemarlin: it isn't just the gauges, its also the headlights and iginition all together. I did a test yesterday, where I got the ignition to activate I turned the bars and the headlights went out, I kinda wiggled the bike back and forth and the lights would go off and on.

I then just got the key and wiggled it and got the same affects, lights and gauges going off and on while shifting the key a bit.

 

[ndgns1]

Oh yea...

anyone have a general break down of the process to get to the ignition switch?

Ive heard the tank needs to be lifted, and something about getting to the yoke and turning it upside down?

like stated earlier, there is nothing in the manual that shows anything about getting to the ignitions switch? Im guessing thats all part of the security

 

[Rockt3]

I had the same problem with mine. Checked with Triumph about replacing it. They want you to change your gas cap and seat latch assemblies also so the biike still only needs one key. I don't think you can order a replacment switch for your original key. Mine turned out to be aloose wire, bad solder job in the wiring conections in the switch. So I just resoldered it and it's been fine.

 

[ndgns1]

I will get a chance to check it out this weekend....