Ignition (start switch) problem

Maybe I'm blind but it sure reads like the same problem. Loss of contact in the electrical circuit. The relay failure is fresh, more likely the gate was corroded (switched fine but to a bad terminal).

If you spend a little quality time with the schematics you can narrow down your problems to a couple easily tested possibilities. Anytime you fiddle a connection and it suddenly works thats telling you something you need to listen to. The connection is loose where it counts. Ignition switch replacement doesn't solve a problem if the problem is the solder joints over heat and break loose. I advocate first understand the problem, then fix it. A lot of shops fix the symptom and rarely look for the problem.

When my Trophy 1200 started acting weird and I was at a loss I took it to the dealer. They had it for 3 weeks. They tested all manner of stuff over three weeks. (They even reorted to using a spare $1100 igniter to test my problem). They finally found a problem in one coil. Replaced the coil, everything was great. But they had to test every circuit and ignition whatzit until they were down to the coils (maybe should have looked there first?).

If you need some help deciphering the electrical prints in the manual just ask, someone (including me) is always willing to help.

happyhenry said:

I think I have the same issue .Ihave found that rocking the bike back and forth in 3rd or 4th usally gets it to start. I do get a ''clicking'' sound like when a bad solinoid is present.L ast year 800 bucks spent trying to fix with a new starter. very frustrating problem.this year a new gear position switch was thrown into the mix with no luck. I t seems to only happen when other people want to hear the new ehhaust and are watching me.does this sound familiar to anyone

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This happened to me not long ago same symptoms and it turned out to be a bad solder to ignition block.
all fixed now though but i had to pull the wiring out of the bars to get to it as i have my wiring internal in a set of highway hawk fat customs.

clutch switch

Also maybe check your clutch sensor behind your clutch lever spray some WD-40 in there incase its sticking or something.
might make bugger all difference but i guess its worth a shot

BigWillie said:

It is the ghost of Lucas!

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HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA, I know that ghost.

starter woes

Any time you use starter and woe in the same sentence it gives pause to go somwhere else ,boy this bike maintenance will stop you in your tracks any Way my 05 r3 60k miles is giving me fits with the starter if it were a car I would think thie bendix is weak two batteries, headlights cuttoffs, new ignition switch still let it set for a day or two or even 8 hrs at 40degrees and I have to jump start it I've started carrying a car battery for a spare starter boost my question is what enables the starter to remain engaged long enough to spin the motor through several revolutions before starting I'm an at complete stop with ideas there I go again

starting

test battery under load,current draw to the starter,voltage drop test.also check earth .run a lead from the battery negative to the frame.see from there.there is a few things to check ,relay,wiring to relay,etc.you need a book

Faulty ignition wiring

I have a 2008 R3 and am the 2nd owner. It only has 3000 km on the clock. I broke down last week out on a run, with a complete loss of power. I pulled to the roadside, put the bike on the stand and turned the wheel to one side and my power came back on.
I turned the front wheel to full extent left and right a few times, the power went off and on but eventually stayed on. I rode the bike home with one more cut out issue.
I was planning a ride tomorrow, so thought I'd check the wiring under the tank. I lifted the tank, turned on the ignition and started wiggling plugs to see which was causing the problem. I then noticed the ignition plug was ****ed hot and in fact it started to smoke. I pulled the plug apart and it has melted on both sides, the white and white blue thicker wires.
Has anyone else had this issue? I pulled the insulation tape back on both sides of the plug and it looks like the plug has been re-wired at some point.

Sounds like a classic case of ignition switch melt down, either the switch will fail or the plug. You will need to fit headlight relays to lower the current draw through these items. Triumph should fix it for you because it is a known problem, if the switch needs replacing make sure you get a complete lock-set so you don't have multiple keys. Do Not use the bike until headlight relays are fitted for it will happen again at a sooner time.

PS. or it could be something else.

I reckon Gothlander's spot on.
G'day and welcome by the way.

Yep. Mine failed whilst I was at a motor cycle rally. I and some buddies tore into it from the bottom (upside down) and did the best we could do to re-solder everything back together. Then I squirted the cavity where all the wires are soldered with a clear sealer. I have a post about it somewhere on another thread. Anyway, it got me home.

Since then, the switch and harness were replaced by Triumph (under warranty) by Gus at Baxter's . Recently had the headlight bypass relay installed. Wow! Talk about more light! And no more faults.

IMHO The bypass relay is a must on older bikes. Didd Triumph ever change the routing of the headlights so power doesn't go through the ignition switch?