Help 2008 r3 touring not starting

Wdugan9080

Supercharged
Joined
May 11, 2021
Messages
256
Location
KW, FL, USA
Ride
2008 Triumph Rocket 3 Touring
Hi group I recently took off my throttle body's ,sent out the injectors and got them back and put it all back together but was confused about the way the vacuum hoses hooked up, my question is if i have them routed wrong will the bike not start at all dont think im getting spark and the fuel pump is pumping up when I turn the key please help, in the keys and the closest Triumph dealer is about 4 hrs away. Thank you all
 
Hi group I recently took off my throttle body's ,sent out the injectors and got them back and put it all back together but was confused about the way the vacuum hoses hooked up, my question is if i have them routed wrong will the bike not start at all dont think im getting spark and the fuel pump is pumping up when I turn the key please help, in the keys and the closest Triumph dealer is about 4 hrs away. Thank you all
bike will not turn over unless the clutch lever is pulled in.
we need some some info
is it just clicking?
does the motor crank over good?
will if fire if you use starting fluid?
 
Let's take this one step at a time, you can eliminate air as the issue, so that leaves spark and fuel. You can easily test spark by pulling one spark plug lead, attach a spare spark plug to it and then ground it on the engine. Crank the engine and if it sparks, that's not your problem. If you have access to a fuel pressure guage you can test the output pressure of the fuel pump. There's more than one case where the fuel filter got clogged and the fuel rail wasn't properly pressurized. If the pressure is good and the injectors are clean then it might be the electrical connectors to the injectors aren't in the correct sequence. This should imply that there is a logical sequence of checking and testing to get to the root problem. Vacuum hoses could be the problem but more likely it's something else. If you had TuneECU it might help to know if there are any codes active.
 
Thanks Turbo the clutch was pulled in, it cranks fine, no spark at the plug (used a screwdriver in it and held it close to valve cover bolt, didn't try the starting fluid cause I didn't see spark, not even any trying to combust when cranked, like I said I'm not too sure if I got the vacuum hoses on the right ports, looks like 2 sets of vacuum hoses come up from the evaporator can, the #3 carb has 2 connections, and #1 and #2 have 1 connection, and the last one is connected to the map sensor, I know I should have taken some photos before disassemble, my bad, I didn't, would help out a lot, I guess I have to make a good copy of the print in the manual for the evaporator system and hose routing and really dig in. It's very hard to see which hose is which, it was running before I took it apart so I don't think it's the filter, but when I had it apart #2 throttle body's was black inside and when it was running it would pop out of the body a little, that's why I sent the injectors out to be cleaned and serviced, but thinking about it I think I have a tight intake valve on #2, but that wouldn't keep it from starting. I will take it to the shop to have the valves checked b ut hoping i could ride it there, and also fix my screw up, so automatically splitter if you say that if I routed the vacuum lines wrong will create no spark issue, or if you happen to have a photo of the routing of the line's or know if the map sensor has to come directly off the carb connection, would be very helpful, the pump starts up and shuts down like normal and as it was running prior I don't think the filter is the problem. But if anybody has a photo with the airborne off and the vacuum line's I'd really appreciate it, thanks in advance group and turbo and atom for the fast reply
 
Thanks Turbo the clutch was pulled in, it cranks fine, no spark at the plug (used a screwdriver in it and held it close to valve cover bolt, didn't try the starting fluid cause I didn't see spark, not even any trying to combust when cranked, like I said I'm not too sure if I got the vacuum hoses on the right ports, looks like 2 sets of vacuum hoses come up from the evaporator can, the #3 carb has 2 connections, and #1 and #2 have 1 connection, and the last one is connected to the map sensor, I know I should have taken some photos before disassemble, my bad, I didn't, would help out a lot, I guess I have to make a good copy of the print in the manual for the evaporator system and hose routing and really dig in. It's very hard to see which hose is which, it was running before I took it apart so I don't think it's the filter, but when I had it apart #2 throttle body's was black inside and when it was running it would pop out of the body a little, that's why I sent the injectors out to be cleaned and serviced, but thinking about it I think I have a tight intake valve on #2, but that wouldn't keep it from starting. I will take it to the shop to have the valves checked b ut hoping i could ride it there, and also fix my screw up, so automatically splitter if you say that if I routed the vacuum lines wrong will create no spark issue, or if you happen to have a photo of the routing of the line's or know if the map sensor has to come directly off the carb connection, would be very helpful, the pump starts up and shuts down like normal and as it was running prior I don't think the filter is the problem. But if anybody has a photo with the airborne off and the vacuum line's I'd really appreciate it, thanks in advance group and turbo and atom for the fast reply
Correction #3 throttle body's has 3 connections
 
If you don't have TuneECU, it may be time to invest in a cable and license, it would help with diagnostics. The Evap can has 3 hoses according to my drawing and the instructions do state to mark or identify those hoses BEFORE disassembly (your bad). There could be a lot of reasons you're not getting spark (like tip over sensor not plugged in). This is going to take some time to sort but taking it one step at a time should get you back running.
 
On the throttle bodies you have three plugs/rubber caps
and you have 3 hoses all the same length that plugs into a 3-4 fitting( a plastic vac connector that has four connections) then the fourth one goes from tee to the map sensor i would say on throttle bodies that it does not matter witch vac hose goes where
on the coils you should check for the ignition 12 volts i think on the outer blade terminal if you have 12 on one of them then the other two should be fine because they are linked together
any small code reader should read codes but get the tuneecu like @atomsplitter said you will be glad you did
 
If you don't have TuneECU, it may be time to invest in a cable and license, it would help with diagnostics. The Evap can has 3 hoses according to my drawing and the instructions do state to mark or identify those hoses BEFORE disassembly (your bad). There could be a lot of reasons you're not getting spark (like tip over sensor not plugged in). This is going to take some time to sort but taking it one step at a time should get you back running.
Thanks atom I have tune ecu and cable but isn't there a light on the dash that would light up if there's a code beside the check engine light if I remember correctly, I know I saw the vacuum chart but the line's are hard to trace and see exactly where they go, yes I know my bad for not at least taking a photo, but I'm not going to cry over spilt milk. This is where I am, just trying to get it from point a to point be and I can drive it to the shop as I don't have anything to take it with, but thanks for trying.
 
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