Front Rotors

[1K9]

Wait! - The have free play in the direction of rotation? If so they are toast.
Some side to side play, maybe. But rotational! - they will start to get worse and faster than you think. Something has oval-ed.

My current choice would be PFM from the Isle of Mann. They do various types. I would go for SPORT and soft soft pads.

Yes lots of play in the direction of rotation. Toast discs ah?

 

[1K9]

Had a wobble on my bike. Started around 40,000 miles. Adjusted head bearings and still had a wobble. Then we noticed that Truimph recommends lubricating bearings at 20,000 miles. So we took the entire front suspension off the bike. (Upgraded to progressive springs) To my surprise the bearings had some kind of slim on them by no means would i call it grease. Upon inspection went ahead and replaced bearings and races. Packed bearings with real grease. Reassembled and have never had a problem since then. The original bearings were never greased properly and flat wore out. Low speed wobble and high speed wobble disappeared. Forks go back in with lip of outer tube even with top of yoke. What 0 ring are you referring to? Good stuff. Front rotors thickness standard is 5.0MM Service limit is 4.5MM Disc run out standard 0.1MM service limit 0.3MM. Rear rotor standard 7.5MM service limit 6.5 MM. Disc run-out 0.15 service limit. Any of the rotors reach the service limit replace. Yes they do wear out over time especially when using sinstered pads. You play you pay. Along with the cam upgrade another item on my to do list is to get the top yoke powder coated. (among other items) I will be adjusting the steering bearings at this time and will post pics in detail. Pinch bolts and tires can cause problems BUT

Thank you Sonny. Have to converse with my service advisor. The this is that the dealership is not run correctly and they have a secretary running the service desk. I know that have a competent tech but it is hard to get to him in person and converse about what to do to the bike. The wear of the discs is not on the friction surfaces but in the joints that allow the disc to "float". They have developed a lot of play. I had never heard of that.

 

[sonny]

I have not either

 

[1K9]

I have not either

Just an update for the benefit of others who have this issue.

I went to the dealership today to give a set of new Rocket Roadster front rotors a shake.

Mine are flooooopyyyy. Nick, my service advisor opined that this is rather common on the Rockets. He says... you can run them like that, they are not going to fall apart but...start shopping for a new pair of rotors.

As to the front head bearings and such... if the leak on the right fork continues in spite of the cleaning them efforts, the seals will have to be replaced. It will be a good time to insert the Progressive springs in and some higher viscosity magic fluid in the tubes. Right now the steering is smooth and has no perceptible play, however, at that time of changing the seals, the bearings and races can be changed and everything adjusted correctly as well as the bearings on the front rim changed.

Then my life will be whole again. Thank you Jesus.

 

[barbagris]

Mine are flooooopyyyy.

This happens as we age.

When you do change the seals: there are a set made by Ohlins which are made to fit and are superior - and (here anyway) also cheaper!. You should also polish the fork legs. Suspension place I go to strips, cleans with warm solvent/detergent, polishes and rebuilds for a very reasonable price. Go the whole hog and fit decent cartridges?

 

[1K9]

This happens as we age.

When you do change the seals: there are a set made by Ohlins which are made to fit and are superior - and (here anyway) also cheaper!. You should also polish the fork legs. Suspension place I go to strips, cleans with warm solvent/detergent, polishes and rebuilds for a very reasonable price. Go the whole hog and fit decent cartridges?

Mine is getting floppy but still brakes hard a few times a year. For now cleaning them has stopped the leak. The left one had the same issue in Stearns, cleaned it and has been well for months. Found the front discs in England. The ones in the USA have toooo many miles and will likely not last. Im going to keep the R3 until I can't ride no more so Im making the expenditure.

Thank you for your help. You expert guys are the spine of this group.

 

[1K9]

This happens as we age.

When you do change the seals: there are a set made by Ohlins which are made to fit and are superior - and (here anyway) also cheaper!. You should also polish the fork legs. Suspension place I go to strips, cleans with warm solvent/detergent, polishes and rebuilds for a very reasonable price. Go the whole hog and fit decent cartridges?

What are the cartridges? Im letting Rick work on mine at the local dealer. He is an old timer and knows what he is doing. Have the Progressive springs. What else should I request other than change seals, install forks and gime new 710

 

[JRock]

I've been lusting after these for a long time.
If you've got $1100 laying around, there supposed to be nice:

AK-20 Axxion Cartridge Kit (AK20T-Rocket III) - Traxxion Dynamics

 

[WyldCFH]

Have them put 10w in when they do the fork springs. 7w is not enough in my opinion. Especially since you are working on your body positioning and corner speeds.

Consider going with EBC HH Sintered pads front and rear. But I wouldn't do both ends at the same time. Bedding in front and rear at the same time could be dangerous in the sh!t Houston traffic.

 

[barbagris]

I've been lusting after these for a long time.
If you've got $1100 laying around, there supposed to be nice:

AK-20 Axxion Cartridge Kit (AK20T-Rocket III) - Traxxion Dynamics

If they are anything like the Maxton set I fitted - Oh yes, spend the money.
Just adjusted mine to compensate for the sticky-er new front rubber.