Front Rotors

[1K9]

Been a few guy on here with bad cobras.
Not unheard of.

My tire is a Shinko Journey SE. Had the same tire before.

 

[Jag]

My tire is a Shinko Journey SE. Had the same tire before.

Oops sorry. If you can’t balance the tire I would think that might be the test.

Try rideon tire balancer/ sealer. Might help.

 

[barbagris]

Nobody knows about my floppy discs? They also say that the 3.5 mm rotors I got as spares will melt on the Rocket.
I think that is BS but they are the experts.

The "floppies": Are they R3 specific? - what make? - the 3.5mm thing has me a bit thrown off - even if they are grade-A cast iron that's a bit skinny. Are they new or used?

Are they semi floating (basically a trick to thermally isolate the heat bearing disc from the disc carrier) that really do not have much if any movement. Or Fully floating designed to additionally maintain centricity and usually a fair bit more expensive? - OEM TRIUMPH DISCS are NOT fully floating. I would expect fully floating discs for an R3 to be closer to 5mm

I am fussy about many things as some will have noticed by now. Brakes is one of them though on the R3 I don't use them all that much.
If and when I decide to upgrade it will be ISR, BERENGER, BREMBO, PFM etc etc - Ductile Iron discs with fully floating centres. I would expect 4 or 5mm.

 

[mr hunt]

There are two. How can order be an issue? Now, the floaters have a lot of play. Ill go to a new R3 at the store and give them a good shake and call back.

They need to torqued correctly...i don't understand why either.

I can tell you that the first time i removed /refitted the front axel i DIDN’T follow the manual....the second time i followed it to the letter

 

[mr hunt]

Also...stock rotors are 5mm and from memory they have a .5mm wear service limit (i think the run out is .25 to .3mm) so 3.5mm is probably a bit on the skinny side

 

[Ishrub]

They are snug all right. There is a lot of play in the thingy joints that make them floating discs. As far as the fork leaking. Where do you pour this SealMate product?

It is a piece of semi flexible plastic - some cut their own from a plastic bottle or ice cream tub.

Even a credit card does the trick most times.

SealMate is an easy way to keep your fork seals clean and debris free.

Extract dirt and debris trapped between fork seal and tube.

Suitable for upside down and conventional forks

SEAL MATE FORK SEAL CLEANER / SAVERS - GENUINE made in USA SEALMATE Tool *red* | eBay

 

[barbagris]

SealMate is an easy way to keep your fork seals clean and debris free.

Or maybe Fork Leg OIL SEAL SAVERS – Proline

 

[1K9]

It is a piece of semi flexible plastic - some cut their own from a plastic bottle or ice cream tub.

Even a credit card does the trick most times.

SealMate is an easy way to keep your fork seals clean and debris free.

Extract dirt and debris trapped between fork seal and tube.

Suitable for upside down and conventional forks

SEAL MATE FORK SEAL CLEANER / SAVERS - GENUINE made in USA SEALMATE Tool *red* | eBay

Have used these and I think Ive stopped the leak.

 

[1K9]

The "floppies": Are they R3 specific? - what make? - the 3.5mm thing has me a bit thrown off - even if they are grade-A cast iron that's a bit skinny. Are they new or used?

Are they semi floating (basically a trick to thermally isolate the heat bearing disc from the disc carrier) that really do not have much if any movement. Or Fully floating designed to additionally maintain centricity and usually a fair bit more expensive? - OEM TRIUMPH DISCS are NOT fully floating. I would expect fully floating discs for an R3 to be closer to 5mm

I am fussy about many things as some will have noticed by now. Brakes is one of them though on the R3 I don't use them all that much.
If and when I decide to upgrade it will be ISR, BERENGER, BREMBO, PFM etc etc - Ductile Iron discs with fully floating centres. I would expect 4 or 5mm.

The discs that allegedly have too much play are the original Rocket Classic discs. Do these things wear out? My bike has 50k miles.
The replacement discs are from a Triumph 955. They are 3.5 mm and are new. They also come in 4mm. I wonder if the 3.5 will get too hot as the dealer claims. I see no reason why a slimmer disc would be cause to generate more heat. I don't race and don't use the front brakes that much, unless Im on a downhill leg in the Smokies.

Also, how do I determine if my head main bolt is loose. I can't perceive or palpate any play and would hesitate to tighten the bolt and cause undue pressure on the bearings.

 

[barbagris]

Yes!. Discs can wear. It's by no means a common thing, but .................... The bugger is really fine dust - If it gets between the bobbins and the alloy carrier it's like a grind stone. Ironically teh worst thing you can do is try to lubricate them - the lubricant attracts more dust.

A 955 is much much lighter.

Heat: It's more a question of dissipation than generation. A thinner disc means less heat sinking capability. ESPECIALLY if they are stainless which is s cruddy thermal conductor.

This sort of diagnoses without seeing first hand is a tad difficult. Semi floating discs should have pretty much NO free play when cold. They will loosen a bit if they are HOT. If they rattle - they're dead. It depends how fussy you are - where in between you feel safe. And they are brakes. I know what I'd do. If Fully Floating discs rattled I'd bin them.


Head bearing - if in doubt - RTFM and check them anyway. Down load the @idk free copy - grab a beer and sit down for a long read.