Fork bolt on touring model

Rocket_Rider

Supercharged
Joined
Jan 26, 2019
Messages
238
Location
Sydney Australia
Ride
Rocket 3 Touring 2018
Dear brains trust,

I have noticed the left side fork occasionally drops a small drop of fork oil on my touring model. It’s definitely coming from the bottom bolt. The bolt is definitely not tightened to the 30nm recommended by the manual so I’m guessing that is how the oil is very gradually seeping out. The problem has only just started after several years of owning it from new. The fork has never been dissembled since I bought it new. When I try and tighten the bolt it gets a little firmer then a little looser and repeat. It feels suspiciously like a cross thread.

the next bit is I’m not sure the best way to approach disassembly.... drilling that bolt out doesn’t seem like it would be easy.... the touring mode as far as I know doesn’t have a nut on the damper rod that the bolt goes into to exert any pressure from up top.... ideas??

appreciate suggestions.... only other thing I can think is take to a shop?
 
Hey @Rocket_Rider that bolt is designed to spin, unless it's different from the Roadster, which I doubt. You have to remove the top plug to reach a special tool (which you can also make) down to hold onto the assembly. You may as well service the forks while you're at it and consider Progressive springs, or any other upgrading. I'll look for some info for you.
 
skip to 9:30

His homemade broom tool did not work for me. I made a tool more similar to Triumph's- read below. Others with an air wrench have luck freeing the bolt from the cartridge because it spins so fast and breaks free.

Progressive Fork Springs

Update: manufacturing glitch. I talked with someone at Progressive and after seeing my photos, they seemed pretty sure that's what happened. ***Read on if you are replacing springs or servicing forks. I hope others will have better luck. I couldn't wait for a replacement, so I put the original...
www.r3owners.net

more

Fork Seals

O.K. Folks, so what is the general advice on "how to" changing the fork seals ?
www.r3owners.net
 
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How to say this?
If it is spinning and not tighening up then u can use an impac gun.
U will need a 1/4 inch extension about 6 inches long. I have one that is more slender and it works great on trans pan bolts. When i do mine a use a 3/8 impac and a 3/8 12 inch extension
And just give it a little shot but i don't recomend that.
Recomended take the 1/4 extension place male square end in vice and with torque wrench set at proper setting see if it twist (tries to wind up) the extension and if it does u can use this on the impac (a short burst )
And that should tighten the bolt. Then recheck with torque wrench.
If u use this info it should keep u from having to take forks apart.
 
"several years of owning it from new. The fork has never been dissembled since I bought it new."

I'd recommend changing the seals, oil, and possibly springs (upgrade). It's been several years and you have lost "X" quantity of fork oil from one side.
 
Thanks guys, gives me a couple of ideas.... potentially the issue is as I have changed the spring to a progressive spring there is not as much pressure on that damper rod as the factory spring had, it was easier to do up the top cap when I swapped the spring and this may be a part of why I cannot tighten the bolt... ie not enough pressure so I might try putting the factory spring back in and see if that gives me enough to tighten.
The broom thing won’t work... the damper rod in the touring is different to that video, it’s just got a flat top on it.... so I’m guessing the aim here is as I’ve said above, have enough pressure on the rod....

Failing that I’ll take to a shop that has an impact gun.... I don’t have one of them.
 
The broom thing didn't work for me either. I made a tool out of square steel that prevents the cartridge from turning. Then you can not only loosen it, but put a proper torque wrench on it when you reassemble. For the Roadster you need (not sure if it's the same for the Touring)
2 feet of 3/4 steel square tube with a wall thickness of 1/16th (.0625)
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
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Ok, update: successfully tightened bolt to spec as per manual and no more leaking!!

I managed to figure out the damper rod top is not flat and does have a hollow section to it... didn’t look like that but turns out there was still a little bit of oil in the rod when I first looked. Ironically in the end it was a piece of oak dowel bought from hardware shop that resembled a broom handle but only cost a few dollars..... whittled it down and hammered it in, put stick in vice and voila... could tighten bolt as much as needed. Refilled oil to spec and the bike feels heaps better...

To others doing it - the damper rod takes what’s probably close to about 20mm

Guess the bolt just loosened a bit over the last 20,000kms ... oh well, I have a whittled down stick added to the bike’s tool set...
 

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Awesome! How'd you set the oil level? I made the air gap tool with a very large washer, drilled a hole in it and ran the proper length of copper tubing through it, so that when the washer set on top of the fork the tube extended down right to where the oil level should be. Attached a flexible hose to the top of the tube, overfilled the oil level slightly, then suctioned off oil until it stopped- right at the proper gap.

You must have done something similar, I would think.
 
I have one of the motion pro fork oil level tools, you overfill the oil, it is to the correct depth and siphoned off till it’s the exact level. The tool is only like $15USD not much more in Aussie dollar..... handy thing to have, have used it before in other bikes...
 

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