First start in ~10 weeks, MIL on!?

[Boog]

My 2 cents: electricity is not flowing good enough or you don't have enough. Disconnect the battery leads and give them a good cleaning and dope them up with dielectric grease. This alone may fix the issue.
You may also have a weak battery.

 

[Bullseye]

My 2 cents: electricity is not flowing good enough or you don't have enough. Disconnect the battery leads and give them a good cleaning and dope them up with dielectric grease. This alone may fix the issue.
You may also have a weak battery.

Thanks, will do.

 

[CrzystghndKC]

My 2 cents: electricity is not flowing good enough or you don't have enough. Disconnect the battery leads and give them a good cleaning and dope them up with dielectric grease. This alone may fix the issue.
You may also have a weak battery.

What Boog said.

 

[stollydriver]

Have to agree - battery required.

 

[Boog]

@Bullseye I was dreaming about my 2014 R3T and its electrical issues and remembered ditching the old negative cable and replacing it with two new ones. Mine had become somewhat corroded some 30K miles at that time if I remember right. I have just under 72K miles now. So, while cleaning the cable leads, look at the wires inside of the cable wrap as best you can. If you find greenish, crusty corrosion, I'd recommend new cable to.
It is weird what we dream of at times, past memories, current work stress, talking dogs... The list does on and on...

 

[Bullseye]

@Bullseye I was dreaming about my 2014 R3T and its electrical issues and remembered ditching the old negative cable and replacing it with two new ones. Mine had become somewhat corroded some 30K miles at that time if I remember right. I have just under 72K miles now. So, while cleaning the cable leads, look at the wires inside of the cable wrap as best you can. If you find greenish, crusty corrosion, I'd recommend new cable to.
It is weird what we dream of at times, past memories, current work stress, talking dogs... The list does on and on...

Many thanks for all your responses, comments and ideas.
@sonny you are right, I should have tended the bike better over the winter and start on a regular basis
@Boog @Tripps I measured the battery voltage and it was 12.48V, so was way under where it should have been. I disconnected and cleaned the connectors and terminals which made a big difference and have now reached 12.7V
@warp9.9 I raised the tank and thankfully found nothing there!

I restarted the bike and the instruments came back - neutral light, miles to empty and the fuel gauge.
Unfortunately after carrying out the '12 minute tune' the check engine light is still on.

Is there any way of finding the fault code without the diagnostic tool?
Thanks all.

 

[stollydriver]

The check light should go out after @3 cold to hot engine runs - mine did.

 

[Tripps]

The check light should go out after @3 cold to hot engine runs - mine did.

Yup, that's my experience too.

 

[Bullseye]

Many thanks for all your responses, comments and ideas.
@sonny you are right, I should have tended the bike better over the winter and start on a regular basis
@Boog @Tripps I measured the battery voltage and it was 12.48V, so was way under where it should have been. I disconnected and cleaned the connectors and terminals which made a big difference and have now reached 12.7V
@warp9.9 I raised the tank and thankfully found nothing there!

I restarted the bike and the instruments came back - neutral light, miles to empty and the fuel gauge.
Unfortunately after carrying out the '12 minute tune' the check engine light is still on.

Is there any way of finding the fault code without the diagnostic tool?
Thanks all.

I'll let you know at the weekend, thanks.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Don't forget to tighten the battery cable wires a few times a year. I bought a battery that I didn't need because it wouldn't turn over. Instead of tightening them first I figured 6 years, time for a new battery. Nope, tighten the cables.