Looking for a suitable bolt now, actually this is a great spot for an aluminum bolt! No load, and in M10 threads, you'll certainly break the bolt before you strip the housing.
 
If we go with aluminum, will have to provide a set of three -- one to screw up and learn, a second to take the learning curve, and a third to make to the end of current ownership.
 
i have worked on this and i have a few replacements.
the thread is size M10x1.5 metric. the bolt i have is 7/8 inch long
u have to use something like an Allen head because the bolt head will not fit wright.
now u might use an 1 inch bolt u would have to measure so it does not touch the ring gear.
the bolts i have have Allen head and come out of chev torque converters they make several diff kinds and i only get these out of trucks i replace them with new factory bolts with hex heads.
now the problem with these is that if some one over torques these it will strip the final drive threads.:(:( gone until monday:thumbsup::thumbsup:

After reading this thread, I happened to be in Menards today and picked up a couple of 10mm x 20mm flange bolts. I know one was a 1.5 pitch and I think the other was a 1.25 pitch. I was just guessing at the size, but I was pretty sure the bolt Triumph uses was one of those Two sizes.

As I recall, it was a flange bolt as well. Anyway, you might check out Menards. I am going to look on Amazon to see if I can get some aluminum crush washers to match for a good seal. I change my fluid once or twice a season so I see no need for the magnet. I always correctly torque my bolts or nuts. Don''t even go their guys. Lol

I use BelRay full syntetic 80-90 I believe...Always a pretty candy apple red when I put it in, but a nasty smelling black when I drain it out. Someday I hope it comes out red.
 
I suppose I’ll add this to the list of maintenance things I’ll do this year :p. When the tires done and I do the splines I’ll do the fluid as well.

A steel replacement bolt will be much cheaper than Alu or Ti, but, if I take a bolt off a new Alu or Ti goes back on, just a me thing :)
 
I suppose I’ll add this to the list of maintenance things I’ll do this year :p. When the tires done and I do the splines I’ll do the fluid as well.

A steel replacement bolt will be much cheaper than Alu or Ti, but, if I take a bolt off a new Alu or Ti goes back on, just a me thing :)

I guess I don't recall the bolt being aluminum. Hmmm...is it? Anyway, if I ever worry about the seize factor between steel and aluminum like a spark plug and a aluminum head, I'll use a little never seize and make sure I torque properly. God forbid I should ever have to try and fish a magnet or part of a broken bolt out of the final drive. That is grief I dont need.
 
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