Everything to Know About Cleaning Your Bike

MountainMan

Supercharged
Joined
Oct 29, 2009
Messages
227
Location
Columbia River Gorge
Ride
'08 R3T - Ol' Blue
I found this site the other day and thought it useful.

http://www.v-twinforum.com/forums/archive/f-28.html

And here are a couple of alternative ideas I use:

High pressure water forced into places it's not meant to be scares me. I have taken the suggestion of a classic car detailing shop. They just liberally apply a good degreaser (Simple Green, 409, Zep, anything"detergent") with a squirt bottle or a small weed sprayer and let it sit for as long as you can stand it (at least 20 min.) It helps to keep it out of the sun and longer set time if it's cold. Then just use a garden hose with a mild spray (think "hard rain") to remove the crud. If dirt remains, use a brush. If greasy crud remains, use gunk (I like to use the foaming stuff on motorcycles, the non-foaming on the diesel pickup, et al) I have used this tactic for the last few years with all sorts of engine bays and found it to be a good approach with a minimum of steps and sore fingers (I need the fingers for the wax job to follow).

For the chrome and polished stainless (on anything), I have my own secret weapon - brass or bronze wool and soap. Steel wool and Scotchbrite are too hard and will scratch the chrome. Sponges and rags take forever and are useless on tough stuff like tar or rust zits. Brass wool is harder than any bit of rust or tar or bug, but softer than the chrome surface - IT WILL NOT SCRATCH CHROME. The only problem is getting some for you guys not near the marina and the smell of rotting protein on the beach. I'm sure that outfits like WestMarine have websites as do other bigtime chandelaries and boating supply outfits. It's spendy, but lasts forever.

For the plexiglas, I use the stuff I used when I was a kid working at the airport pumping fuel into small airplanes - Meguiar's Mirror Glaze plastic polish (blue/gray bottle - not the "cleaner" in the white bottle). If it's good enough to catch bugs for the FAA, it's good enough to catch bugs on the highway. It takes quite a bit of elbow grease, but the result is polished, not just smeared around and scratched up. Also can be used for plastic signal light lenses, helmet visors, and other things "plexi" or Lexan.

For the rubber parts (tires, seals, hoses, et al), I stay away from anything other than just plan soap and water. Silicone and the solvents that come with it (Armour All, etc.) I have seen drying out things rubber. Again, degreaser is your friend, because grease and oil will rot anything rubber (quickly) and degrade plastic (over time).
 
..I use this stuff.. http://www.s100.com/ ..spray it on in the shade..let it sit for maybe two or three minutes..gently spray it off..what it don't get only requires a minimal amount of elbow grease..get it at your local Harley dealer..
 
rkt88 said:
..I use this stuff.. http://www.s100.com/ ..spray it on in the shade..let it sit for maybe two or three minutes..gently spray it off..what it don't get only requires a minimal amount of elbow grease..get it at your local Harley dealer..

I use that stuff too, the engine brightener is great stuff, the windshield and helmet cleaner is great for bugs and is waterless and repels water very well. The spray on wax is good stuff for an easy wax in between heavy duty waxes. I've used their products for years.

Native One
 
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