Eroding alloy on wheels

[cr0ft]

Yeah powdercoating doesn't work for the Touring in my opinion. It's a cruiser. It's supposed to have wheel bling. I hear great things about the Shine Seal product - for now, I'll just clean them up with 2000 grit and then polish them back up to a great shine since I already have the wheel off, then repeat during next winter break and finish them with Shine Seal. From what I read online that will keep the wheel shiny for up to two years, just wash and go (it somehow chemically bonds to the metal creating a protective surface; it's not a lacquer but a very thin film of some kind you just wipe on and wipe off the excess.)

 

[Bone crusher]

I have used a product called Rejex that I discovered on this forum on everything but the wheels as they were pretty good until recently and the shine is magnificent. After a recent ride that ender up in the rain the corrosion on the wheels has started. The wheels might have to come off though so it can be done properly. The Rejex is some kind of polymer or so they say that is supposed to last for months and even longer with repeat coats. Well we will see. While looking of a link to post on this stuff I came across this, CorrosionX - How it works the science seems sound but how long could it last? Might give it a go.

 

[cr0ft]

Yeah, look into Shine Seal also, linked it in a few posts back. It's the same guy who did something called Zoop seal once upon a time and this reportedly is some great stuff. Saw pics of some almost immaculate aluminium wheels that reportedly were covered 2 years earlier and only had been washed since, not a hint of corrosion. 2 years is how long they claim it should be good for. It's going to cost me extra to get it as usual since I live in the back of beyond, but I'm hopeful it will get me to a once-a-year good cleaning instead of having to go over the wheels several times a year.

I mean, some of the reviewers say some crazy **** like this:

"I used his previous product, "Zoop Seal" many years ago on a couple of motorcycles. And both those bikes went to Bonneville and raced on the salt. When I got the bikes home they were washed and partially taken apart. And after three trips to Bonneville (and it's coating of wet salt) everything was still perfectly polished and looked like they had just been coated.

And from what I have heard Shine Seal is even better."



If that's even remotely close to reality then I for one will be a happy camper. I enjoy shiny wheels but the polishing process really requires you to totally take the wheel off and remove the brake disc to even have a shot at reaching the whole rim, and that's a lot of work.

 

[cr0ft]

The wheel back on the bike, finally.

Here's an image I shot while polishing, almost done in this one.

800 grit, 1200 grit, 2000 grit (by hand, for my sins, couldn't find a way to get any kind of sander in there), polished twice with Flitz and a machine. This is from when it was about 90% done, still some cleaning left to do when I shot this but it was getting there.



Of course, I'm going to have to take the wheel off - again - in the fall when I put the bike up for winter and repeat the sanding and polishing process before applying Shine Seal. I got it to about 95% of where I want it, but just ran out of time. Need the bike on the road tomorrow without fail, so had to expedite.

 

[Blackthou]

Probably look better without the masking tape.

 

[Blackthou]

True, but the problem with doing this is you have to polish them all the time, or they'll oxidize and go right back to looking like crap...the most durable wheel finish I've experienced is chrome, and it probably isn't that much more expensive than powder coating either, and it looks a hellovalot better IMO...

True, they seem to go off quite quickly but on the other hand I think they do respond well to a polish.

 

[cr0ft]

Probably look better without the masking tape.

It's a new look I'm trying out, but you're right, I think I'll take it off so the whitewalls are visible again.

True, they seem to go off quite quickly but on the other hand I think they do respond well to a polish.

Just the way raw aluminium is, I'd say. But the more polished and smooth you get it, the longer it will remain that way. That's why I wetsanded mine down, in order to get at the machining marks and improve reflectivity.