test light is basically a light bulb with two wires connected to it. One goes to ground, the other to the source of voltage you're checking. if you use an actual test light, the tip of the probe goes to the hot wire, the alligator clamp to ground. If it lights, then there is 12 volts and the power available to light the light.

example:
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Redneck example:

take a 12volt automotive bulb. solder a wire to the tip and ground the side to a ground path on the bike/battery. connect the wire attached to the tip of your 12 source you want to measure and see if it lights up. TIP- use a regular bulb, not an LED, LEDs don't take much to light so an incandescent bulb is better.
 
oooooh olongapo city, you sure you miss the place and not the ladies? lol

Oh, definitely the ladies but Lumpia, Balut, San Miguel, meat-on-a-stick (after lots of San Miguel and rum), Jeepneys, Taxi Trikes, Jungle Survival Training, helping some natives shoot a massive fruit bat with their slingshots, fishing and the awesome bands too.
Good memories but I know it has changed there.
 
i used a multimeter to check. can you further elaborate?

Sorry for the delay. I was looking to see if I had one so I could do some pictures. I usually keep a smal cheap one on the bike but I must have lost it.

Do a Google search for Automotive test light. It looks like a screwdriver handle with a pointed tip an a wire from the other side with a clip at the end and a incandescent bulb inside the handle.

Attach the clip to the negative battery post and touch the point to the connection with 12v and the bulb should light brightly. That shows the circuit can carry a load (amps)

To test grounds put the clip on the positive battery post and touch the grounded circuit. Same thing should happen. Bright bulb..

One thread of a bad wire will show voltage of continuity on the meter but it won't light the bulb. I.e. can't carry the load (amps)

Unfortunately diagnosing a bad ECU is tricky. Pretty much eliminate any other possibility, then check powers and grounds on the unplugged ECU connector (there could be several of each) and if they are all good, bight the bullet and order the ECU.

Our member IDK has wiring diagrams in his signature file if you don't have the manual.
 
Additional ramblings:

Check positive & negative ground cable connections.
Maybe ship the ECU to an official Triumph repair shop and see if they can reset it with their tool - even if you do buy another one you would have a spare or can resell it if they can somehow recover it.
 
basics when u turn on the ign switch kill switch on u always have a check engine light on. that just tells u the light circuit is working. if u start it up and the light is still on that means u have a code.

you r making things to hard for yourself
first for now forget about the codes and the readers.
u need to go back to the basics.
in post #32 u said u had 6 volts at the fuel pump relay if this is correct and if u have 12+ at the fuses then u have a connection problem. fuel pump is not going to work on 6 volts.
the ecu is not your problem. if u r not getting 12 volts to the ecu then it is not going to work.
u need to have the volt meter on the bat neg and the fuses when u turn ign on if 12 v then check at fuel pump relay then engine management relay.
when u figure out what is happening to the voltage then u will have your problem solved.
 
Check fuse connections. Make sure there is current in both wires into and out of the fuse box for the engine control circuit. A corroded or defective socket can mean no current flow but the fuse could still be good. Low voltage due to a poor connection here causes all kinds of problems with the gauges.
 
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