Deep throaty exhaust

Can you clarify please:
Are you flicking to the main beam WHILE you have starter button pressed?
I suspect not, as there is no current flowing through headlight circuit with starter relay energized
So you release the button, flick to high beam and then press start again and it works?
It sounds purely coincidental - but if anything may indicate the key-switch as the problem

Well if blue light goes out* while the starter button is pressed (but starter itself is not actually operating) that is what should happen (as far as light goes) and of course should also come back on when starter button is released; that says that the starter relay is switching and the problem most likely would be in the solenoid (it could be the relay, but more likely the solenoid)

* The starter relay diverts current via a changeover relay from the headlights to the starter solenoid - it cannot supply both at the same. So if the headlight indicator goes out, it confirms the relay has switched over - now it could be the N/O pole of the relay that has bad contact, but it is more typically the solenoid that is not throwing. The relay switches about 10A to either the headlights OR the Solenoid so it's a significant current and can pit the contacts when switching on/off. It's at least a fairly inexpensive and simple part to swap to validate one way or the other.

That sounds like a key-switch issue which unfortunately is very common with the classics.

p.s. also check the smaller gauge ground pigtail off the main battery negative cable - it goes to a single-way connector that often burns.
I've took the solenoid off but not sure what I should be looking for, should I replace the whole thing or should I change the plunger?
 

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Ooops gone back and read properly, he meant relay switch not the whole blinking solenoid but while I have it off, is there anything I should be looking at, was 5 min job to get it off.
I've took the starter relay off and cleaned but can easily buy a new one and replace just to make sure
 
That is not the starter solenoid. It is the armature and looks fine. The solenoid is what the heavy gauge wire is attached to above the body that holds that armature. Here it is with the armature body removed.
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Next 2 pics are of the solenoid contacts and plunger. Check for heavy pitting/wear. They can be replaced and or cleaned up.
 
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That is not the starter solenoid. It is the armature and looks fine. The solenoid is what the heavy gauge wire is attached to above the body that holds that armature. Here it is with the armature body removed.
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Next 2 pics are of the solenoid contacts and plunger. Check for heavy pitting/wear. They can be replaced and or cleaned up.
Lol shows how much I know, phew a learning curve
 
I think I already know the answer to this but....
I pulled the item in my above pictures out of the armature and realised there are 4 moving arms inside that need to be pulled back. There are two screws underneath the armature which if I'm right means that one I get the armature apart I can take it out, attach to above piece the screw back in. My question is does the armature come in 3 bits and should it come apart
I'm guessing it does as near bottom I can see a black washer however I cant put it apart. If it does come apart does it screw off or should it pull apart? Either way it wont do either. I've tried wd40, tried to prise it with screwdriver, tried lightish taps with hammer but no dice? Do I need special tool? I'll post pics in next thread so you have a visual
 
First pic is armature showing arms inside, second pic is towards bottom of armature and 3rd pic is a whole side view. Hope this makes sense
 

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Sorry, but you are way in, over your head on this project. Put away the hammer, and prying devices. You may have already messed something up, beyond repair. A new starter and relay, would be much easier at this point. Someone will chime in with the part numbers for a over the counter replacement, that is even better than the stock unit, and much cheaper than one from Triumph. Sometimes learning can be painful, but then again, sometimes it's the only way "to" learn. Ask me how I know...... ha! :)
 
What you're calling "arms" are the brushes. They have to be pushed back against their springs, and held there until the armature is inserted. Some have holes where you can put a pin to hold the brush back. Others are much more complicated. And the brushes are only carbon, and very fragil. A tap with a hammer, usually breaks them. Sorry, but true.
 
Sorry, but you are way in, over your head on this project. Put away the hammer, and prying devices. You may have already messed something up, beyond repair. A new starter and relay, would be much easier at this point. Someone will chime in with the part numbers for a over the counter replacement, that is even better than the stock unit, and much cheaper than one from Triumph. Sometimes learning can be painful, but then again, sometimes it's the only way "to" learn. Ask me how I know...... ha! :)
i didn't hit it hard, didnt even knock any paint off (was trying to loosen any rust that may have caught in the seal just a tap all the way around the lip to try to get some movement) and as for prying i gently put a flat headed screw driver under the lip to see if it would move and realised it wouldn't which is why i stopped. if i have to bite the bullet and buy one i guess i will but would rather, if i can try to fix this one. thankfully i have another triumph ride so can take my time 😃
 
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