Crazy ignition skip under load

[TURBO200R4]

I too have this momentary cut out on my 2006 Rocket. I did a major up grade at 50,000 miles adding the NLR 200 HP kit along with Viking Exhaust. New everything including fuel filter. Ran great for many miles. Now at 56,000 miles the exact scenario has developed in mine too. I first thought it was a transmission or clutch slip. But it is just as Frosty describes. I don't think it is clutch. I'm scared it could be a final drive spline jump.

I i would say there is nothing in the final drive that would slip once the shaft strips you are walking same with ujoints

 

[martym52]

I have been chasing this gremlin for awhile, no not the car, bike starts and runs fine, but when I put the engine under load, (hard throttle to put a Vrod or other Harley back in its place) the cuts out for a fraction of a second, and it will do it multiple times, but doesn't seem to happen in the gears like 4th and 5th, but its harder to get the engine under load at those speeds. so far I have done,

- battery is good, no power issues
- The bike has RamAir, and full Jardine exhaust with CAT delete installed
- Using Hanso tune for this setup, I have been using this tune for about 8-years with no issues, it actually gave me 130HP and 140Tq at the back wheel.
- TPS has been changed and it setup correctly, as well as the other sensor, don't remember the name of it Secondary sensor maybe? the one at the front of the throttle bodies.
- Vacuum hoses on the throttle bodies are good, no cracks or leaks
- Throttle bodies have been synced
- Scorpio alarm system has been completely removed, just because it was driving me nuts
- Auto Tune and Power Commander V was all removed, figured it was possible that they might be throwing some bad values.
- Connectors on the coils have been crimped and are tight
- Spark plug leads have been changed (they were new, but came from one of the early engine kits that dealers would get, waaaaaay back, so they were about 15 -20 years old when I got them)
- New spark plugs, and the gap was checked and set correctly on all of them
- Valve clearances were checked and any that were out were fixed, Cam chain and guides were replaced at the same time.
- the SEC I think it is has been disabled through Tune ECU
- Reinstalled the Hanso tune, and ran the 12-minute adaptation (original tune is no good to use due to the intake and exhaust mods)
- On deceleration there will be back firing, I think it is more than usual, and the exhaust connection joints have been tightened and sealed, pull the clutch in and the back firing stops.

I thought it might have something to do with timing being off, but that would be consistent and noticeable through all the gears and at start up, and the bike starts, idles, and runs fine if you don't push it. The other thought is that possibly the spark plugs leads or just one of them had degraded due to how long they sat, got them and a ton of other new parts from Triple Trouble, but not sure how they were stored through all that time. Possibly I have coil that is finally saying enough is enough and I'm not putting up with your crap anymore, but it if is one lead or coil I'm not sure how to track down which one, and it is about $1000 to replace the 3 coils and six leads all at once, but I may end up doing that anyway.

I have gone through a number of threads, but can't find something that falls along this line of trouble, so I'm looking for further clues, or something I might have missed or not thought of. I have the GT to play with, but it is nice to tear around on the Touring once in awhile I miss riding it running correctly, it does incredible burn outs. I have been leaning toward leads or coil, since on a few of my cars if one of those was bad, it was run fine if you were driving normal, but when you stepped on the gas to get up and go, you would get a miss in the engine just like on the bike.

Change the fuel filter, less load in the lower gears and also less advance unless that has been changed.

 

[Gregger]

Can you get your hands on one coil/lead combo. Use it as a test, swapping each coil at a time to see if you can isolate the potential coil issue???

You can also test the resistance of the coils on the primary and secondary side but this doesn't always catch leaking insolation on the secondary side. A megger would be needed but who has one???

One other free thinking idea... could you have a loose ignition lead that touches the frame on hard acceleration cutting out ignition???

 

[TURBO200R4]

Can you get your hands on one coil/lead combo. Use it as a test, swapping each coil at a time to see if you can isolate the potential coil issue???

You can also test the resistance of the coils on the primary and secondary side but this doesn't always catch leaking insolation on the secondary side. A megger would be needed but who has one???

One other free thinking idea... could you have a loose ignition lead that touches the frame on hard acceleration cutting out ignition???

Once upon a time I had a 65ply fury and I put a 440 magnum motor in it and it would miss under heavy throttle several times it was checked with scopes and no one could find the problem.
I was out one night and noticed that the headlights would go out with the misses.
What i finally found was the motor torque up and touched the positive battery cable that would cause the motor to lose power and the motor would then drop away from the cable
Another problem a shorted wire on the intake would blow a fuse and the car motor would die. So I installed a breaker fuse then I was able to see the sparks so quick fix.

 

[Frosty Rider]

Can you get your hands on one coil/lead combo. Use it as a test, swapping each coil at a time to see if you can isolate the potential coil issue???

You can also test the resistance of the coils on the primary and secondary side but this doesn't always catch leaking insolation on the secondary side. A megger would be needed but who has one???

One other free thinking idea... could you have a loose ignition lead that touches the frame on hard acceleration cutting out ignition???

It has a new fuel filter, changed that when i was doing the timing chain and valve adjustment, yes it is installed the right way, made sure of that, was thinking about the coil and lead swap as you mentioned, that would be a summer job, don't have a heated garage, if i was living back up in Timmins I would have a heated garage, just not looking forward to the tank up, tank down, tank up, tank down process for that one, but such is life, and I never thought of one of the coil leads shorting to the frame, i'll have to go over all the wiring around there, coils 2 and 3 seemed to be ok, but number 1 is the awkward one to check, so i'll to go back and take a closer look at that one.

Someone asked if i was sure that it was the engine cutting out, and yes, you get that kick and very brief moment of silence, like whatever cylinder should be firing at the moment, isn't. If it was the final drive or shaft splines going out, that would be a very different feeling and sound, and the way power cuts out and comes back on, it would all be a mass of metal chunks by now, (learned about that the hard way with my Cordoba, without the fine Corinthian leather) on the plus side that back tire has lasted more then one season at this point, instead of a new one every year, they don't seem to last long for some crazy reason , though i was doing one to two rear tires on my GT for the first couple of years, again, not sure why it was so hard on back tires .

Someone else asked when it started, I think it was when I did the valve, and timing chain, i did the fuel filter, spark plugs, and ignition leads, and crimped the coil leads all at that time, the ignition leads were new at that time, but had been in storage 15+ years, more on the plus side, and i'm not sure how long they would last before starting to degrade.

 

[TURBO200R4]

I am old so if this has been said
I would remove the crank sensor one 10mm headed bolt and clean and inspect it. Start the motor so there will not be much oil run out.
Ps sensor is at rear bottom of motor

 

[TURBO200R4]

Just a thought
For you guys in cold country having winter projects you could remove mufflers and run a flexible steel pipe about 4 feet then a tube to the out side and start motor it should warm up your garage pretty quick
Hth

 

[Frosty Rider]

Just a thought
For you guys in cold country having winter projects you could remove mufflers and run a flexible steel pipe about 4 feet then a tube to the out side and start motor it should warm up your garage pretty quick
Hth

i thought of piping my exhausts out of the garage, but the garage is to big for the bike to heat it up, and it would end being a bit hot to work on after that, but that had crossed my mind

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

Someone else asked when it started, I think it was when I did the valve, and timing chain, i did the fuel filter, spark plugs, and ignition leads, and crimped the coil leads all at that time, the ignition leads were new at that time, but had been in storage 15+ years, more on the plus side, and i'm not sure how long they would last before starting to degrade.

Most likely something there not put back right, damaged or something. Dodgy plugs, HT lead not seated right etc.
I'd be going back through it all and putting back old plugs and leads etc. See if the issue remains. If not change one thing at a time.

 

[TURBO200R4]

I have some used coils if you are interested
$125.00 plus shipping