Crazy ignition skip under load

I i would say there is nothing in the final drive that would slip once the shaft strips you are walking same with ujoints
 
Change the fuel filter, less load in the lower gears and also less advance unless that has been changed.
 
Can you get your hands on one coil/lead combo. Use it as a test, swapping each coil at a time to see if you can isolate the potential coil issue???

You can also test the resistance of the coils on the primary and secondary side but this doesn't always catch leaking insolation on the secondary side. A megger would be needed but who has one???

One other free thinking idea... could you have a loose ignition lead that touches the frame on hard acceleration cutting out ignition???
 
Once upon a time I had a 65ply fury and I put a 440 magnum motor in it and it would miss under heavy throttle several times it was checked with scopes and no one could find the problem.
I was out one night and noticed that the headlights would go out with the misses.
What i finally found was the motor torque up and touched the positive battery cable that would cause the motor to lose power and the motor would then drop away from the cable
Another problem a shorted wire on the intake would blow a fuse and the car motor would die. So I installed a breaker fuse then I was able to see the sparks so quick fix.
 
It has a new fuel filter, changed that when i was doing the timing chain and valve adjustment, yes it is installed the right way, made sure of that, was thinking about the coil and lead swap as you mentioned, that would be a summer job, don't have a heated garage, if i was living back up in Timmins I would have a heated garage, just not looking forward to the tank up, tank down, tank up, tank down process for that one, but such is life, and I never thought of one of the coil leads shorting to the frame, i'll have to go over all the wiring around there, coils 2 and 3 seemed to be ok, but number 1 is the awkward one to check, so i'll to go back and take a closer look at that one.

Someone asked if i was sure that it was the engine cutting out, and yes, you get that kick and very brief moment of silence, like whatever cylinder should be firing at the moment, isn't. If it was the final drive or shaft splines going out, that would be a very different feeling and sound, and the way power cuts out and comes back on, it would all be a mass of metal chunks by now, (learned about that the hard way with my Cordoba, without the fine Corinthian leather) on the plus side that back tire has lasted more then one season at this point, instead of a new one every year, they don't seem to last long for some crazy reason , though i was doing one to two rear tires on my GT for the first couple of years, again, not sure why it was so hard on back tires .

Someone else asked when it started, I think it was when I did the valve, and timing chain, i did the fuel filter, spark plugs, and ignition leads, and crimped the coil leads all at that time, the ignition leads were new at that time, but had been in storage 15+ years, more on the plus side, and i'm not sure how long they would last before starting to degrade.
 
Just a thought
For you guys in cold country having winter projects you could remove mufflers and run a flexible steel pipe about 4 feet then a tube to the out side and start motor it should warm up your garage pretty quick
Hth
 
Just a thought
For you guys in cold country having winter projects you could remove mufflers and run a flexible steel pipe about 4 feet then a tube to the out side and start motor it should warm up your garage pretty quick
Hth
i thought of piping my exhausts out of the garage, but the garage is to big for the bike to heat it up, and it would end being a bit hot to work on after that, but that had crossed my mind
 

Most likely something there not put back right, damaged or something. Dodgy plugs, HT lead not seated right etc.
I'd be going back through it all and putting back old plugs and leads etc. See if the issue remains. If not change one thing at a time.