Coolant Change Question??

[Gregger]

Triumph recommends an HOAT coolant in the Rocket (Hybid Organic Acid Technology). HOAT coolants are good for 5 years or 150,000 miles. Typically coolants made for the European engines should have this chemical makeup. Some may be compatible with OAT types but I wouldn't chance it. Also, do not assume that the colour of the coolant dictates if it can be mixed with another type. If you are going with a premixed coolant, you don't need any distilled water or extra additives. A 50/50 mix is usually recommended for -37C coverage which is more than enough in California. Also gives good protection against boiling and preventing corrosion in the engine. I run a 60/40 mix since my bike can see temps up to -40C while parked in an unheated shed for the winter. When to change??? when it's warm out so you don't freeze your buns off.

When I change my coolant, I simply remove the rad cap, remove the bolt in the water pump with the washer attached and let the rad drain. There is a small breather plug in the block on the left hand side just above the water pump. Make sure you remove this while filling the block/rad. I filled mine until it started to come out then put the plug back in (watch for the sealing washer). Filled the rad then the overflow tank and ran the bike. The engine will eventually burp any air out draw from the overflow tank while cooling.

Oh, you don't need to replace the sealing washers on the 2 bolts being removed.

 

[John Miller]

Ok from my own experience.

OAT is good for an all alloy coolant system - not so good for the stock RIII radiator as it is made from copper and brass - it will foul with a very thin layer of scale over time (ask me how I know this). I used it and it fouled my radiator over a period of 12-14 months (not enough to overheat but enough to raise the coolant temps noticeably - would get really hot during summer). If you have the stock copper/brass radiator you should use a green / HOAT coolant or one that is compatible with both copper, brass and alum. alloy.

You don't really need to replace the copper washer(s) unless they are damaged or scored badly (you can anneal them with a flame and allow to cool in air) - I didn't has not been an issue for me.

When you fill the system you need to fill to the top remove the bleed screw, stand the bike upright or slightly over towards the exhaust side first to get the side of the radiator where the cap is located at the highest point allowing all the air in the system to vent. Once you have all the air out of the engine and just coolant flowing out the bleed screw hole - cap off the bleed screw and then top off the coolant and fit the radiator cap. Then half fill your expansion tank, start it up and allow it to warm up fully - you should see some expansion from the radiator into your overflow tank. If it should start gushing out the overflow you will likely have an air lock in the system or a bad Rad Cap.

When satisfied take it for a short ride, allow it to cool, stand the bike upright and pinch off your overflow tube and pull the rad cap and check the radiator level it should be full, if there is any significant air gap you will need to top it off and go again. Repeat this process until you get to the point where you can pull the cap and the rad will be full - job done.

To be sure the system is functioning correctly you will need to check your header / expansion tank level regularly to be satisfied all is working correctly, if you have to keep topping up the system you could have a small leak you need to find and fix.

I hope that helps - a little.

 

[Wajhi]

Ok from my own experience.

OAT is good for an all alloy coolant system - not so good for the stock RIII radiator as it is made from copper and brass - it will foul with a very thin layer of scale over time (ask me how I know this). I used it and it fouled my radiator over a period of 12-14 months (not enough to overheat but enough to raise the coolant temps noticeably - would get really hot during summer). If you have the stock copper/brass radiator you should use a green / HOAT coolant or one that is compatible with both copper, brass and alum. alloy.

You don't really need to replace the copper washer(s) unless they are damaged or scored badly (you can anneal them with a flame and allow to cool in air) - I didn't has not been an issue for me.

When you fill the system you need to fill to the top remove the bleed screw, stand the bike upright or slightly over towards the exhaust side first to get the side of the radiator where the cap is located at the highest point allowing all the air in the system to vent. Once you have all the air out of the engine and just coolant flowing out the bleed screw hole - cap off the bleed screw and then top off the coolant and fit the radiator cap. Then half fill your expansion tank, start it up and allow it to warm up fully - you should see some expansion from the radiator into your overflow tank. If it should start gushing out the overflow you will likely have an air lock in the system or a bad Rad Cap.

When satisfied take it for a short ride, allow it to cool, stand the bike upright and pinch off your overflow tube and pull the rad cap and check the radiator level it should be full, if there is any significant air gap you will need to top it off and go again. Repeat this process until you get to the point where you can pull the cap and the rad will be full - job done.

To be sure the system is functioning correctly you will need to check your header / expansion tank level regularly to be satisfied all is working correctly, if you have to keep topping up the system you could have a small leak you need to find and fix.

I hope that helps - a little.

Thanks everyone for the valuable info....

so if I want to wait another year before I change the coolant and my overflow bottle is empty now....then can I fill distilled water upto the required level as top-off in the overflow bottle????

 

[Wajhi]

Thanks everyone for the valuable info....

so if I want to wait another year before I change the coolant and my overflow bottle is empty now....then can I fill distilled water upto the required level as top-off in the overflow bottle????

Or just don’t do anything till I change the coolant???

 

[Joesmoe]

Either purchase a container of 50% pre-mix -- remember the above admonition to stick to HOAT -- or, mix your own.

I mix my own -- mark it plainly -- and have it there whenever I need to top off.

 

[Dzhaks]

My bike has 6500 miles...2015 r3r....the dealer says the coolant need to be changed every four years....the manual says the coolant renew is at 20000 miles....I live in California....so no freezing here....
I brought all distilled water and coolant(pic attached)....I have following question:
1. What is the optimum time to change the coolant?
2. The coolant bought is the right one, I got it from autozone...they said it OAT?
3. Can I change it myself cos when I opened the cap...it started dropping...the cap was not even off...just loosens...plus I did not buy any washers for the screws in the pump at the bottom....? Should I wait cos the coolant started dripping meaning the level is ok....my overflow bottle is empty though???? Someone said that an inhibitor needed to protect engine????? Please advise

1. Every 2 years (for HOAT or G11 type), for G12 or higher 4-5 years.
2. Triumph recommends HOAT or G11 type. Perhaps, there is some information on the other side of bottle about type of antifreeze inside it.
3. You may use 0.5-1 liter of new fluid to wash out the rest of old antifreeze. Try to not open the pump cap. There is a seal that hard to install after.