Clutch switch problem

I have my 2020 in for its 20K service and I am having the dealer replace the clutch switch as it keeps loosening and causing the aforementioned starting issue. Definitely agree that this much too flimsy on an otherwise solidly built bike.

Are they going to replace the switch with the same? or put something better in there? I'd be interested to know if there's a suitable plug n play alternative to the OE one, I'd buy it for sure.
 
Are they going to replace the switch with the same? or put something better in there? I'd be interested to know if there's a suitable plug n play alternative to the OE one, I'd buy it for sure.
It'll be the same cheapo POS. I've fixed mine a number of times by bending the metal flap back. If the bike starts without pulling in the clutch it needs to be "adjusted" (bent).
 
yes, get a reverse switch and short the wires on the clutch switch.

I wouldn't do that. The switch controls a whole lot more than you think. When my gas gauge quit working on my '11 Roadster I went into a deep dive on the net to find out why and discovered that switch was the cause. It's a Triumph, not not just a Rocket issue. It can do the same sometimes on the new models too, although not sure why it's not always. On any of the Rockets if your gas gauge stops working see if you can start the bike without pulling in the clutch. If so, the switch is broken, or needs to be "adjusted." Once you've done that your gas gauge will work again. Go here to find out what all is affected by that switch not working properly....


Later in the thread I posted this that I found on another site....

The "super moderator" on the Triumph675 website
said the following......
"This was passed down to my by my Triumph instructor who told me that this came straight from Keihin and that it applies to the new Suzukis as well since they run the same ECU setup.
Obviously item 2 and 3 do not apply to our bikes but most of these do. [It obviously does apply to our bikes]
The only way around this is to run the race kit ecu and harness.
Quote:
The Clutch switch is important in the following 13 ways:

1 Decel rate control using the idle speed stepper: Additional steps are used to
soften the decels – when the clutch is pulled in these steps must be dumped
or the bike will hangup or push-on. [the stepper motor rears its ugly head again- interesting]
2 Fuel gauge – will not update whilst the clutch is in – this is to stop updating
of the sensor when the fuel could be sloshing (i.e. during gear changes). [supports my theory that when some of us "fix" the switch we're leaving it in constant contact]
3 Vehicle speed limiter – This will not work with the clutch switch bypassed.
4 Gear position judgment – The NCT range with no gear position sensor
derives an idea of gear postion from RPM vs Vehicle Speed. This function will
not work so the wrong ignition maps are applied.
5 Gear position judgement other models – The clutch switch will force a
‘NO LOAD’ condition and use the neutral ignition maps. This overrides the
gear position info and the wrong ignition, second throttle and exhaust
butterfly maps will be used!

6 Ignition smoothing strategy is disabled.
7 Pressure based fuel merging to Throttle based fuel is not merged – its
switched which can cause a jump in fueling.
8 Deceleration fuel reduction multiplier is not applied – causing rich overuns
– potentially damaging to the CAT.
9 Deceleration fuel cut-off & CAT protection fuel cut is not applied – this will
definitely impact on CAT performance.
10 On some models closed loop will not work when riding.
11 D675 airflap will always be closed
12 D675 exhaust valve will remain partly closed.
13 Starter lock out switch – ie SAFETY
 
I wouldn't do that. The switch controls a whole lot more than you think. When my gas gauge quit working on my '11 Roadster I went into a deep dive on the net to find out why and discovered that switch was the cause. It's a Triumph, not not just a Rocket issue. It can do the same sometimes on the new models too, although not sure why it's not always. On any of the Rockets if your gas gauge stops working see if you can start the bike without pulling in the clutch. If so, the switch is broken, or needs to be "adjusted." Once you've done that your gas gauge will work again. Go here to find out what all is affected by that switch not working properly....


Later in the thread I posted this that I found on another site....

The "super moderator" on the Triumph675 website
said the following......
"This was passed down to my by my Triumph instructor who told me that this came straight from Keihin and that it applies to the new Suzukis as well since they run the same ECU setup.
Obviously item 2 and 3 do not apply to our bikes but most of these do. [It obviously does apply to our bikes]
The only way around this is to run the race kit ecu and harness.
Quote:
The Clutch switch is important in the following 13 ways:

1 Decel rate control using the idle speed stepper: Additional steps are used to
soften the decels – when the clutch is pulled in these steps must be dumped
or the bike will hangup or push-on. [the stepper motor rears its ugly head again- interesting]
2 Fuel gauge – will not update whilst the clutch is in – this is to stop updating
of the sensor when the fuel could be sloshing (i.e. during gear changes). [supports my theory that when some of us "fix" the switch we're leaving it in constant contact]
3 Vehicle speed limiter – This will not work with the clutch switch bypassed.
4 Gear position judgment – The NCT range with no gear position sensor
derives an idea of gear postion from RPM vs Vehicle Speed. This function will
not work so the wrong ignition maps are applied.
5 Gear position judgement other models – The clutch switch will force a
‘NO LOAD’ condition and use the neutral ignition maps. This overrides the
gear position info and the wrong ignition, second throttle and exhaust
butterfly maps will be used!

6 Ignition smoothing strategy is disabled.
7 Pressure based fuel merging to Throttle based fuel is not merged – its
switched which can cause a jump in fueling.
8 Deceleration fuel reduction multiplier is not applied – causing rich overuns
– potentially damaging to the CAT.
9 Deceleration fuel cut-off & CAT protection fuel cut is not applied – this will
definitely impact on CAT performance.
10 On some models closed loop will not work when riding.
11 D675 airflap will always be closed
12 D675 exhaust valve will remain partly closed.
13 Starter lock out switch – ie SAFETY
THis is not 2011 roadaster,

below is the circuit diagram from Triumph OEM manual that its only connected to ECU and nothing else is connected directly to switch, so yes you can bypass it.

1757176182440.png
 
Last edited:
THis is not 2011 roadaster,

below is the circuit diagram from Triumph OEM manual that its only connected to ECU and nothing else so yes you can bypass it.

1757176182440.png

No, its not. And, the Roadster is not a 675, or a Tiger, but they're all Triumphs and, at least some of them (if not all) share some common technology. I can tell you that when I first got the non-Roadster 2020 3R, within a few days the gas gauge stopped working. WTF? So, I checked the switch (based on past experience with the Roadster) and it had, in fact, been bent and the bike would start without the clutch in. I fixed the switch and (coincidence?) the gas gauge immediately started working again.

I don't know a lot about electrical (hardly any), but that the clutch switch is attached to the ECU doesn't disprove anything- it goes into a mysterious black box that few of us understand. The threads I've shared don't suggest that the clutch switch is connected individually to each of those items, which includes the gas gauge among the others, but that it alerts the ECU which, in turn, based on that feedback, affects the others.

If you're comfortable bypassing that switch just let us know if over time, for whatever reason, you decide to revert back.
 
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